Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing

Overview And Highlights

Trip Facts

Trip Type

Lodge / Camping

Grade

Strenuous

Altitude

6369 m.

Transportation

Ktm-Lukla-Ktm by Flight

Group Size

1 or more

Best Season

Spring and Autumn

Duration

22

Duration

22 Days

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Kusum Kanguru Peak is situated at 6367m in the Khumbu region of the Himalayas. It acts as a border between the Hinku valley in the north and the Dudhkoshi valley in the south. Kusum Kanguru, in Tibetan language, means, ‘Three Snow-White Gods’ refer to its triple possible summit.

It is considered as one of the most difficult climbing peaks as only 9 climbers among 22 attempts were successful during the time between 1978 and 1998. The first person to climb the Kusum Kanguru was Bill Denz on 7th October 1998. The peak can be climbed from two sides, The North Ridge and the South-East Ridge. This peak offers great panoramic views of the Himalayas like Mt. Everest (8848m.), Cho-Oyu (8201m.), Lhotse (8516m.), Makalu (8463m.), Nuptse (7855m.), Thamserku, Amadablam, Kwongde and many named and unnamed high peaks.

Our itinerary is twenty-two days long and follows the route via Chutanga. However, we are flexible in itinerary and ready to customize it as per your requirements. If you prefer to follow the route via Namche Bazaar, that will also be okay for us. Please contact Nepal Environmental Treks & Expedition for Kusum Kanguru Peak climbing with your requirements.

In terms of weather and visibility, we recommend March, April and May in spring and September, October and November in autumn season for any climbing trip in the Nepalese Himalaya. However, it doesn’t mean people don’t climb peak in winter or summer season.

Itinerary Expand All Close All

Day 1 : Arrival in Kathmandu

Food

Welcome Drink

Accomodation

Hotel

Elevation

1400

On your arrival at Kathmandu International Airport, you will be greeted with flower garlands/Khadas. Our representative will then take you to your hotel. If time prevails, you will visit office for paperwork.
Stay overnight at the hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 2 : Trip preparation and city tour of Kathmandu or Patan and Bhaktapur

Food

Breakfast

Accomodation

Hotel

Elevation

1400

Today, you will visit popular world heritage monuments in Kathmandu including Kathmandu Durbar Square, Boudhanath, Swoyambhunath, and Pashupatinath. Alternatively, you can also choose Bhakatapur and Patan sightseeing. By late afternoon, you will drive back to your hotel.
Stay overnight at a hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 3 : Fly to Lukla and trek to Chutanga (3050m.)

Food

Breakfast/lunch/dinner

Accomodation

Lodge

Elevation

3050

After early-morning breakfast, our guide will pick you up from the hotel and drive to the domestic airport terminal. Receive your boarding pass and fly from Kathmandu to Lukla (2886m.) that takes about 35 minutes. The flight offers you up close views of the Himalayas and romantic landscapes of hills, farms and rivers. After you land at Lukla, you will start your trek from Lukla to Chutanga (3050m.) which takes about 4 hours.
Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 4 : Trek from Chutanga to Yak Kharka (4400m)

Food

Breakfast/lunch/dinner

Accomodation

Lodge

Elevation

4400

Trek from Chutanga to Yak Kharka takes about 5 hours.
Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 5 : Rest day at Yak Kharka (4400m)

Food

Breakfast/lunch/dinner

Accomodation

Lodge

Elevation

4400

Today is rest day at Yak Kharka.
Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 6 : Trek from Yak Kharka to Tashing Ongma (3600m).

Food

Breakfast/lunch/dinner

Accomodation

Lodge

Elevation

3600

Trek from Yak Kharka to Tashing Ongma (3600m).
Stay overnight at lodge

Day 7 : Trek from Tashing Ongma to Orshela (4304m).

Food

Breakfast/lunch/dinner

Accomodation

Lodge

Elevation

4304

Trek from Tashing Ongma to Orshela (4304m).
Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 8 : Trek from Orshela to Gondishung

Food

Breakfast/lunch/dinner

Accomodation

Lodge

Trek from Orshela to Gondishung.
Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 9 : Trek from Gondishung to Lungsamba (4063m)

Food

Breakfast/lunch/dinner

Accomodation

Lodge

Elevation

4063

Trek from Gondishung to Lungsamba (4063m).
Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 10 : Trek from Lungsamba to Kusum Kanguru Base Camp

Food

Breakfast/lunch/dinner

Accomodation

Lodge

Elevation

4350

Trek from Lungsamba to Base Camp of Kusum Kanguru Peak.
Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 11-17 : Summit period of Kusum Kanguru Peak (6367m) and descend to Base Camp

Food

Breakfast/lunch/dinner

Accomodation

Camp

Elevation

6367

Climb from Kusum Kanguru Base Camp to summit includes Camp I (5100m), Camp II (5400m), Camp III (5650m) and Camp III (6150m).
Stay overnight in camp.

Day 18 : Trek down from Kusum Kanguru Base Camp to Tashing Ongma

Food

Breakfast/lunch/dinner

Accomodation

Lodge

Elevation

3600

Trek from Gondishung to Tashing Ongma.
Stay overnight in lodge.

Day 19 : Trek from Tashing Ongma to Chutanga

Food

Breakfast/lunch/dinner

Accomodation

Lodge

Elevation

3050

Trek from Tashing Ongma to Chutanga.
Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 20 : Trek from Chutanga to Lukla

Food

Breakfast/lunch/dinner

Accomodation

Lodge

Elevation

2886

Trek from Chutanga to Lukla.
Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 21 : Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu

Food

Breakfast

Accomodation

Hotel

Elevation

1400

Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and it takes about 35 minutes.
Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 22 : Departure

Food

Breakfast

As per your flight schedule, our airport representative will transfer from your hotel to the airport for your final departure.

What Is Included ?

a) Kathmandu

Airport pick-up and drop-off services by private vehicle
3 night hotel accommodation with breakfast at 3 star standards hotel
One day city sightseeing with an English speaking tour guide and private vehicle
Farewell dinner in Kathmandu with live cultural performance at authentic Nepali restaurant on the last evening
Souvenirs (t-shirt, mug, pen, bag, etc.)

b) Trekking & Climbing

Kusum Kanguru peak climbing permit
Trekkers' Information Management system (TIMS) card
Entry permit for Sagarmatha National Park
Entry fee of local municipal government
Climbing guide (Sirdar)
Equipments fee for the climbing guide/s
Required porters including a cook (some nights will be camping and will require cook and cooking utensils)
All meals three times a day during the trek/climb
Accommodation in teahouses (lodges) for some nights and some nights camping
Necessary trekking/camping equipment such as tents, mattresses, sleeping bags, down jackets, duffle bags, rope, Ice axe, Helmet, cooking utensils, Epi gas, etc.
Round trip flight tickets: Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu
Insurance and equipments for the guides and porters
First aid kit
Tax, VAT and our service charge
Rescue assistance (In case of emergency, we will organize prompt and professional rescue services. To arrange timely evacuation/rescue by helicopter, you must be well insured from a reliable travel insurance company that covers both helicopter evacuation and medical treatment cost.)

What Is Excluded?

Personal nature expenses (Telephone calls, toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers and any alcoholic beverages)
Travel insurance
Tips for involved staffs
Sherpa summit bonus
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
Personal climbing equipments
Entrance fees while sightseeing in and around Kathmandu
Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu (even in case of early arrival or late departure, early return from trekking due to any personal reason than the scheduled itinerary)

Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing Altitude Profile

FAQs

Kusum Kanguru is considered one of the most difficult trekking peaks in Nepal, requiring:

Proficiency in rock, ice, and snow climbing
Experience with technical gear (crampons, rope work, ice axe)
Good judgment in alpine conditions

The climb includes steep ascents, knife-edge ridges, and exposed traverses. It's classified by the NMA as a Group “A” peak, reserved for experienced climbers with solid mountaineering backgrounds.

Kusum Kanguru is located in the Solukhumbu District, just southeast of Lukla, the gateway to Everest. It rises sharply between the Dudh Koshi and Hinku Valleys, and its jagged triple summit is often seen early on the Everest trail. Despite being close to popular routes, the mountain is rarely climbed, offering a remote and wild experience.

The full expedition typically takes 20 to 24 days, including:

Trekking in and out
Acclimatization days
Establishing high camps
Summit attempt
Contingency days for weather

Some itineraries may be longer if combined with acclimatization treks or alternate routes like the Hinku Valley approach.

Yes. This is not a beginner’s peak. To attempt Kusum Kanguru safely, you should have:

Experience climbing other 6000+ meter peaks
Skills in rope work, glacier travel, and fixed lines
Comfort with exposure and vertical terrain
A strong understanding of high-altitude conditions

Many climbers who attempt Kusum Kanguru have completed climbs like Island Peak, Lobuche East, or alpine routes in Europe or North America.

The ideal seasons for Kusum Kanguru are:

Spring (April to early June)
Autumn (late September to early November)

These months offer stable weather, better snow conditions, and clear visibility. Monsoon season (June to September) is dangerous due to slippery terrain and landslides, while winter brings extreme cold and heavy snow.

The trek usually begins with a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. From Lukla, you trek through Chutanga and the Hinku Valley, depending on the approach. It takes about 4–5 days to reach base camp, allowing time for gradual acclimatization.

There are also more technical approaches via the Dudh Koshi Valley, which may involve route finding and more isolation.

Climbers need the following permits:

Climbing permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) (Group A peak)
Sagarmatha National Park Permit
TIMS card (Trekkers' Information Management System)

During the trek: You’ll stay in teahouses or lodges, which are basic but offer hot meals and a warm bed.

At base camp and high camps: You’ll sleep in tents, with food prepared by a camp cook. Meals include soups, rice, pasta, potatoes, tea, and high-energy snacks.

It's advisable to bring some personal comfort food or snacks for summit day and high-altitude camps.

Training should start at least 3–6 months in advance and include:

Cardio workouts: running, hiking, stair climbing
Strength training: core, legs, back
Altitude training if possible
Previous climbs or mountaineering courses

Being in top physical condition is key to safely enjoying this expedition.

Yes. Kusum Kanguru’s summit is above 6,300 meters, and proper acclimatization is crucial. Altitude sickness can range from mild to severe and includes symptoms like:

Headache, nausea, fatigue
Dizziness and shortness of breath

Expedition itineraries include rest days and gradual ascent, and guides monitor climbers closely. Carrying Diamox (under medical guidance) can help prevent symptoms.

Kusum Kanguru is a serious mountain, and safety depends on:

Weather conditions
The experience of your guide
Your fitness and acclimatization
Use of proper safety equipment

Choose a reputable agency with a proven safety record, and ensure your expedition includes rescue options, communication tools, and guides trained in high-altitude medicine.

Kusum Kanguru is perfect for climbers who want:

A less-traveled, more remote adventure
Challenging alpine routes
Minimal crowds
Stunning views of the Everest and Makalu ranges
A sense of real accomplishment

It’s one of the few trekking peaks that offers a true mountaineering challenge without the massive traffic found on Island or Mera Peaks. If you’re an ambitious climber seeking to push your limits, this mountain is for you.

Nepal Environmental Treks & Expedition ensures you to provide a well planned itinerary for Kusum Kanguru Peak climbing. An experienced and highly professional climbing guide will be assigned to each climbing member. All necessary logistics will be taken care from our side. However, we expect to maintain good health and physical condition as well as well good mental preparation from your side.

Additional Information

Mountaineering Equipments

Crampons, Ice axe, Helmet, Harness, Lock and unlock Carabineers, Shovel, Climbing pack, Rope, Ski poles, Desender/abseil device, Jummer (Asender) , Tapes, Prusik Loops, Rappel device, Hand Warmer (if possible)

Clothing and Wears

Trekking shoes with spare laces, Mountaineering Boots, Plastic or leather for mountaineering boots, Gore-Tex pants, Long shorts, Insulated Parka, Jumper, Waterproof Jackets, Down Jacket, Fleece Vest, Wool cap, Neck Gaiter, Gloves, Climbing Socks, Thermal Underwear, Sandals, Snow Goggle

Essential Gears

Backpack, Duffle bag, Sleeping Bag, sleeping pad, Tents

Gadgets

Map, Compass, Camera, GPS, Two way radios, Binoculars, Head Lamp, Flashlight

Sun Protection Items

Sun glasses, sun scream, Lip balm

Medical

First aid Kit (Brufen / Ibuprofens, Antibiotic, Diamox, Paracetamol, Handy Plaster, Crack Bandage, Tincture Iodine, etc.)

Other Essentials

Energy Bars, Water bottle, Water Purification Tablets, Toiletries, Trekking poles, Pocket knife, raincoat, Satellite Phone, Altimeter

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