Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, is a popular and adventurous climbing peak in Nepal. In fact, it is one of the most sought-after peaks by both experienced and beginner climbers. Island peak stands tall at the height of 6160m. From a distance, the peak seems as if it is surrounded by a complete of sea of ice and hence its name.
Island peak climbing is both a challenge and a rewarding experience as the summit of Island Peak offers stunning views of beautiful Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Makalu and many other astounding peaks. Expedition teams often use Island peak as a peak for acclimatization and warm-up before attempting to climb Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse. Island peak is actually an extension of southeast ridge of Mt. Lhotse.
The first part of the Imja tse climbing journey involves trekking through the Khumbu region via Sagarmatha National Park. You will be popping in famous places such as Lukla, Phakding, Namche, Tengboche Monastery, Dingboche among others and taking in the beauty of spectacular mountains and rich biodiversity spread in front of your eyes. During acclimatization in Namche, cherish the opportunity to experience Sherpa hospitality and beautiful mountains.
The base camp of Island peak (Imja tse) is located at an altitude of 5,087m. To reach the summit of Island peak involves walking through gully, crevasses, snow and glaciers. Our climbing guide will help you to fix ropes and teach you essential climbing skills for glacier walking which will be very important especially during the last 100m of ascent.
Once the climbing is done, you will be retracing the same steps backwards to Lukla. This time you can loosen up a bit and take more time to take in the surrounding beauty of Khumbu region. Those with more time on hands can climb down from Island Peak and hike up to Kala Patthar and Everest Base Camp before returning to Lukla. Kala Patthar situated at an altitude of 5644m and provides an unparalleled panorama and close up views of Everest, Lhotse, Khumbu Glacier among others. You can also fulfill the dream of reaching Everest Base Camp (5364m) by hiking further from Gorakshep.
Island Peak climbing is a perfect trip for those who are looking for a trip which is more challenging than trekking. It would be the best choice for climbing beginners to gain some essential climbing skills and knowledge. It can also be climbed in order to get enough acclimatization before making final summit of 8000 meters mountains including Everest and Lhotse.
Normally, September, October, and November in autumn season and March, April and May in spring seasons are considered as the best months for Island Peak climbing. Usually, the weather and temperature during these months remain favorable for climbing. However, we can also arrange this expedition throughout the year.
Nepal Environmental Treks & Expedition has been organizing climbing expedition on Island Peak (Imja Tse peak) successfully over the years. Our experienced high altitude climbing crews (guides, porters and cook) are there to assist you to turn your dream of reaching the top of Island Peak into reality.
On your arrival at Kathmandu International Airport, you will be greeted with flower garlands/Khadas. Our representative will then take you to your hotel. If time prevails, you will visit office for paperwork.
Stay overnight at the hotel in Kathmandu...
Today, you will visit popular world heritage monuments in Kathmandu including Kathmandu Durbar Square, Boudhanath, Swoyambhunath, and Pashupatinath. Alternatively, you can also choose Bhakatapur and Patan sightseeing. By late afternoon, you will drive back to your hotel.
Stay overnight at a hotel in Kathmandu.
After early-morning breakfast, our guide will pick you up from the hotel and drive to the domestic airport terminal. Receive your boarding pass and fly from Kathmandu to Lukla (2886m.) that takes about 35 minutes. The flight offers you up close views of the Himalayas and romantic landscapes of hills, farms and rivers.
On arrival to Lukla, you will begin 3 hours trek to Phakding (2640 m.). You start your trek from Lukla with a gentle climb up the mountainside on the left bank of the Dudh Koshi River. Mt. Nupla (5885m) which can be seen in the distance is a peak atop the Kongde Ridge. You descend a mountainside path that merges into your route to Everest, with views to a wonderful valley to your right; and Mt. Kusum Kang (6367m.) to the far end.
Stay overnight at lodge.
You will be stepping into Sagarmatha National Park after passing through Monjo. It takes another two and a half hours to reach Namche Bazaar (3440m), the last stretch involving a climb. Namche Bazaar is surrounded on three sides by mountain ranges and opens out only where it faces the Bhote Koshi.
Stay overnight at lodge.
A day for rest at Namche Bazaar (3440m.) for acclimatization. It is an ideal place to spend a rest day for acclimatization to the high altitude before heading off towards Tyangboche. For acclimatization, you walk up to Khumjung where you can visit a monastery and enjoy the splendid views of Everest, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Nuptse, Lhotse, Tawoche, and Kwangde and so on. Or you can take an one and a half hour’s walk up to Syangboche (3800m.) where Everest View Hotel is situated. The hotel offers an outstanding view of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru.
Stay overnight at lodge.
As you climb through the forested zone, the incline eases and a splendid view appears. You will cross the Dudhkoshi River and continue climbing the mountainside diagonally until you come to the stone gate built by lamas which marks your entry into Tyangboche (3860m).
Stay overnight at lodge.
The trail is pretty straight and gradually climbs over the last part. Dingboche is a beautiful patchwork of fields enclosed by stone walls protecting the crops of barley, buckwheat and potatoes from the cold winds and grazing animals. Witness Nuptse, Island Peak, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Lhotse Sar from here.
Stay overnight at lodge.
Rest day at Dingboche (4260 m.) for acclimatization. There are some breathtaking views of the North face of Ama Dablam and the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge as you explore this beautiful valley that leads up to Island Peak. The walk is short with a good chance to relax in the afternoon. Another option is to take 3 hrs gradual hike up to Chhukum, from where you can enjoy the panoramic view of Island peak, Ama Dablam, Makalu, Tawoche peak and others.
Stay overnight at lodge.
The trail gradually ascends up to the Chhukung. On the way, you can see summer huts made especially for keeping the livestock’s in summer time. Along this, you enjoy the beautiful mountain views in and around the valley. Chhukung has few locally operated lodges.
Stay overnight at lodge.
You trek through gradual ascent path all the way to Base Camp. On the way you can enjoy the panoramic views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, Island Peak, Cho Polu. Ampu Lapcha and many others. There is the sacred Imja Lake located near the Base Camp.
Stay overnight in camp.
Crossing the gully above the Base Camp the trail makes a climb for another hour to a narrow ridge, leading on to the Island Peak Glacier. Here, it is time to rope up and put on your crampons as the most interesting part of the climb begins with the glacier crossing. This is followed by the steep snow slope that leads onto the summit ridge. This ridge is wonderfully windy and on reaching the summit you have stunning close-up views of the south face of Lhotse looming over you whilst in the other direction, there are more mountain views. Other mountains you can catch views of include Lhotse Shar, Lhotse Middle, Makalu, Peak 38 etc. You descend along the same route, down to the base camp.
Stay overnight in camp.
The trail descends gradually passing through meadows. Cross the Lhotse glacier river and then arrive at Chhukung.
Stay overnight at lodge.
The trail continues to descend all the way down to Tyangboche. You can catch views of Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kangteka etc. Tyangboche is a small village with the famous Tyangboche Monastery offering you majestic views of Ama Dablam, Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse.
Stay overnight in lodge.
The walk from Tyangboche is mostly downhill on the main busy trail with a few steep climbs for an hour from the bridge at Phungitenga, near to Shanasha. The walk further to Namche is very scenic on a long winding path.
Stay overnight in lodge.
The last day of your trek leads from Namche Bazaar via Monjo to Lukla. The trek is pleasant, except for a few short uphill climbs and then down to the Bhote-Koshi River crossing it three times. The last uphill climb of 45 minutes will bring you to Lukla for your overnight stay.
Stay overnight in lodge.
You take an early morning flight back to Kathmandu enjoying panoramic views of green hills and snow-capped peaks.
Stay overnight in lodge.
As per your flight schedule, our airport representative will transfer from your hotel to the airport for your final departure.
Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse (6,189 meters / 20,305 feet), is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal, located in the Everest region. It was named “Island Peak” by Eric Shipton in 1951 because it appears as an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche.
Island Peak is considered a moderately technical climb. While it's achievable for fit beginners with proper preparation, prior experience with basic mountaineering techniques (like using crampons, ice axe, and fixed ropes) is highly beneficial.
Key challenges include:
A steep ice headwall near the summit (about 100 meters of fixed rope).
Crevasses on the glacier (may require ladder crossings).
High altitude – risk of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).
Cold temperatures and wind.
If you're new to mountaineering, a short climbing clinic before the summit push is typically provided by guiding companies. Being in excellent physical condition is essential.
The best seasons to climb Island Peak are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November).
a. Spring (Mar-May):
Stable weather, blooming rhododendrons, and good visibility.
Warmer temperatures compared to autumn.
May attract more climbers, especially in April.
b. Autumn (Sep-Nov):
Clear skies and crisp mountain views.
Cooler and drier conditions—ideal for climbing.
Fewer chances of rain and avalanches.
Climbing in winter is possible but requires strong preparation for cold and snow. Monsoon (June-August) is generally avoided due to rain, slippery trails, and poor visibility.
A typical Island Peak expedition takes 16 to 20 days, depending on acclimatization and whether it includes the Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek.
Some itineraries combine Island Peak with Everest Base Camp or Kala Patthar for added adventure and altitude adaptation.
You’ll need several permits:
Island Peak Climbing Permit – Issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA)
Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit – Required for entering the Everest region
Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit
These are usually arranged by trekking agencies, but it’s good to verify this before you go.
Island Peak demands a high level of cardiovascular endurance, leg strength, and mental stamina. A well-rounded training program should begin 2–3 months in advance and include:
Hiking and hill training with a weighted backpack
Running, cycling, or swimming for cardio endurance
Strength training (especially legs and core)
Stair climbing and endurance hikes (5–8 hours)
Altitude simulation if possible (like hypoxic training)
Practice with crampons and ice axe, if available
Mental preparation is just as important as physical – summit day is long (10–14 hours), cold, and demanding.
While Island Peak is considered a non-technical trekking peak, several risks exist:
Altitude sickness (AMS, HAPE, HACE)
Falls or slips on the glacier or headwall
Crevasse danger on the glacier route
Weather changes – snowstorms, high winds
Frostbite or hypothermia
These risks are minimized with proper acclimatization, experienced guides, weather monitoring, and proper gear. Always have travel insurance that covers high-altitude evacuation.
Yes, while not legally mandatory, hiring a certified guide is highly recommended for safety and logistics. A guide helps with:
Route finding, rope fixing, and glacier navigation
Emergency decision-making
Coordinating logistics, meals, and permits
Providing climbing instruction for first-timers
Many outfitters offer full-service guided climbs, including gear, porters, accommodations, and meals. Solo attempts are risky and not encouraged unless you’re highly experienced.
The cost varies based on services, itinerary, and season, but here’s a general range:
Full package from Kathmandu: $21,00 – $3,500
The cost typically includes:
Domestic flights (Kathmandu–Lukla)
Guide and porter services
Permits and logistics
Accommodation (teahouses + tent at base camp)
Meals on the trek and climb
Some climbers prefer to join group departures for reduced costs.
Mountaineering Equipments
Crampons, Ice axe, Helmet, Harness, Lock and unlock Carabineers, Shovel, Climbing pack, Rope, Ski poles, Desender/abseil device, Jummer (Asender) , Tapes, Prusik Loops, Rappel device, Hand Warmer (if possible)
Clothing and Wears
Trekking shoes with spare laces, Mountaineering Boots, Plastic or leather for mountaineering boots, Gore-Tex pants, Long shorts, Insulated Parka, Jumper, Waterproof Jackets, Down Jacket, Fleece Vest, Wool cap, Neck Gaiter, Gloves, Climbing Socks, Thermal Underwear, Sandals, Snow Goggle
Essential Gears
Backpack, Duffle bag, Sleeping Bag, sleeping pad, Tents
Gadgets
Map, Compass, Camera, GPS, Two way radios, Binoculars, Head Lamp, Flashlight
Sun Protection Items
Sun glasses, sun scream, Lip balm,
Medical
First aid Kit (Brufen / Ibuprofens, Antibiotic, Diamox, Paracetamol, Handy Plaster, Crack Bandage, Tincture Iodine, etc.)
Other Essentials
Energy Bars, Water bottle, Water Purification Tablets, Toiletries, Trekking poles, Pocket knife, raincoat, Satellite Phone, Altimeter
