Ama Dablam Expedition with Island Peak Climb

Ama Dablam Expedition with Island Peak Climb

Overview And Highlights

Trip Facts

Trip Type

Camping

Grade

Strenuous

Altitude

6,300 m

Transportation

Flight

Group Size

1 or more

Best Season

Spring and Autumn

Duration

32

Ama Dablam, regarded as the ‘third most popular Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions’, could also be labeled as one of the most beautiful Himalayan peaks, located in the eastern Nepal.

Ama Dablam literally means ‘mother’s necklace’ in Sherpa language. Ama Dablam is 6856m in height and was first climbed in 1961 by an expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary. The most popular route for reaching the top is via southwest ridge although north ridge is also used. The base of the peak is at 5800 meters a perfect spot for acclimatization. Ama Dablam is considered to be a technically difficult and challenging peak for all mountaineers as it involves ice and snow climbing and glacier walking.

Ama Dablam is combined with the climb of Island Peak or Imja Tse. Island Peak looks like an island on a sea of ice and was first climbed in the same year as Everest and by the same team of Hillary and Sherpa as part of warm-up and acclimatization. Since then Island Peak has been a favorite of those who attempt to climb Everest or for anyone willing to climb a mountain.

Island Peak has an impressive, highly glaciated West Face which rises from the Lhotse Glacier. In fact, the mountain extends from the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated only by a small col. Steep slopes, rocky climb and ice walking are essential features of climbing an Island peak but once on the top you will be rewarded with stunning views of the surrounding mountains including Nuptse, Lhotse, Cho Polu, Makalu, Ama Dablam and Baruntse.

Itinerary Expand All Close All

Food
Dinner
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1350

On your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, you will be met and welcomed by our airport representative. You will be greeted traditionally with flower garlands. The representative will then take you to your hotel where you will be served welcome drinks. In the afternoon, you can take a stroll around and visit shops, restaurants and bars.
Stay overnight at the hotel in Kathmandu.

Food
Breakfast
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1350

Today, you will visit popular world heritage monuments in Kathmandu including Kathmandu Durbar Square, Boudhanath, Swoyambhunath, and Pashupatinath. Alternatively, you can also choose Bhakatapur and Patan sightseeing. By late afternoon, you will drive back to your hotel.
Stay overnight at a hotel in Kathmandu.

Food
Breakfast
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1350

Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
2886

After early-morning breakfast, our guide will pick you up from the hotel and drive to the domestic airport terminal. Receive your boarding pass and fly from Kathmandu to Lukla (2886m.) that takes about 35 minutes. The flight offers you up close views of the Himalayas and romantic landscapes of hills, farms and rivers.

On arrival to Lukla, you will begin 3 hours trek to Phakding (2640 m.). You start your trek from Lukla with a gentle climb up the mountainside on the left bank of the Dudh Koshi River. Mt. Nupla (5885m) which can be seen in the distance is a peak atop the Kongde Ridge. You descend a mountainside path that merges into your route to Everest, with views to a wonderful valley to your right; and Mt. Kusum Kang (6367m.) to the far end.
Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3440

This day you trek and cross the river on high suspension bridges. Beyond Monjo (2800m.) is the entrance to the Sagarmatha National Park which was set up in order to protect and preserve this fragile mountain environment. You then ascend quite steeply to Namche and along the way, if the weather is clear, catch a first glimpse of Mt Everest in the distance. You can also enjoy the views of Mt. Kusum Kangaru, Thamserku, Kongde-Ri and Tawoche peak. You can also visit some of the village monasteries trekking along the way to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.).
Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3440

It is an ideal place to spend a rest day for acclimatization to the high altitude before heading off towards Tyangboche. For the acclimatization you walk up to Khunde Hospital which was set up by the late Sir Edmund Hillary, or a one hour walk up to Syangboche (3800m.) where Everest View Hotel is situated above Namche for outstanding views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. There are also good views from the National Park Center and Museum just above the town.
Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3867

As you climb through the forested zone, the incline eases and a splendid view appears. You continue climbing the mountainside diagonally until you come to the stone gate built by lamas which marks your entry into Tyangboche (3860m).
Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
4260

beautiful patchwork of fields enclosed by stone walls protecting the crops of barley, buckwheat and potatoes from the cold winds and grazing animals.
Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
4260

There are some breathtaking views of the North face of Ama Dablam and the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge as you explore this beautiful valley that leads up to Island Peak. The walk is short with a good chance to relax in the afternoon. Another option is to hike up to Chhukum, where you can enjoy the panoramic view of Island peak, Ama Dablam, Makalu, Tawoche peak and others.
Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
4730

The trail gradually ascends up to the Chhukung. On the way, you can see summer huts made especially for keeping the livestock’s in summer time. Along this, you enjoy the beautiful mountain views in and around the valley.
Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
5087

You trek through gradual ascent path all the way to Base Camp. On the way you can enjoy the panoramic views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, Island Peak and many others.
Stay overnight in camp.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
6189

Stay overnight in camp.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge

Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
camp
Elevation
4600

Stay overnight at camp.

 

Food
BLD
Accomodation
camp
Elevation
6812

Stay all nights at camp.

Base Camp (4600 m): Situated on a large grassy meadow with a wonderful views.

Advance Base Camp (5400 m): There is a rough track over very rocky terrain, which we use from Base Camp to Advance Base Camp.

Camp I (5800 m): Your first real climb is begins from Advance Base Camp and it takes about 3 hours.  This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. You sometimes fix a couple of sections with rope to be used as a handrail.

Camp I to Camp II (6000 m): This route mostly involves rock climbing. You follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you will be grateful for the fixed ropes in place. You can also use your Jumar to help you over the odd spots of difficulties. Most of the climbing on this section is traversing on rock, so good rock climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.

Camp II: Situated on top of the Yellow Tower on a narrow platform, this camp site is rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you dropped your cup from here, it would probably land in base camp!

Camp II to Camp III (6300m): Now, for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route we follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the purpose of camp three.

Camp III: A cold and exposed position is the start of your summit push. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times unfortunately funnel the wind to this location. It is, however, the only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit.

Summit day: The initial route is to the right of the huge “Dablam” (ice cliff), up a moderately steep slope. Once past this feature we move toward the centre of the face. The angle eases slightly and a couple of tough hours later we emerge on the summit (6812 m). The summit is the size of a tennis court and allows us to move around and take pictures. Five of the world’s six highest peaks are clearly visible, with many other 7000m and lesser peaks rewarding your great efforts.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge

Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3440

Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
2886

Your final day's trekking follows the Dudh Koshi back down to Lukla.
Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1350

Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Food
Breakfast
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1350

Free day in Kathmandu for shopping and recreation.
Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Food
Breakfast

As per your flight schedule, our airport representative will transfer you from your hotel to the airport for your final departure.

What Is Included ?

The Trip Includes Following Services:


a) Kathmandu


Pick-up and drop-off service

All airport pick-up and drop-off services by private vehicle

Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu

5 night hotel accommodation with breakfast at 3 star standards hotel

Sightseeing in Kathmandu

One full day city sightseeing in and around Kathmandu valley with private A/C vehicle and English speaking tour guide including entrance fees

Farewell Dinner

Farewell dinner in Kathmandu with live cultural performance at authentic Nepali restaurant on the last evening

Souvenir

 

b) Trekking and Climbing


Flight Tickets

Flight tickets from Kathmandu to Lukla and Lukla to Kathmandu

All permits

Expedition royalty and permit from Government of Nepal to climb Ama Dablam, Island peak climbing permit, entry permit for Sagarmatha National Park, TIMS card and Local government entrance fee   

Liaison Officer

1 Government Liaison officer with full equipments, salary, accommodation, transportation and insurance as per government rule

Garbage Management Fee

Garbage transfer & garbage disposal fees

Insurance

Medical & Emergency rescue insurance for all involved Nepalese staffs during the entire trip as per government rule

Expedition Stuffs Transportation

All necessary equipments transportation for all climbing members and staffs from Kathmandu to Lukla and Lukla to Kathmandu by air cargo, Lukla to Base Camp and back to Lukla by porters / yaks

Member Luggage

Up to 50 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carrying by porters /yaks

Food

3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch and dinner) including tea and coffee during the trek and Base Camp, appropriate foods for high altitude to all climbing crews at Base Camp and above

Lodging

Lodge based accommodation during the trek, and well-managed Base Camp set up for climbing members & Staff at Base Camp

Porters

Porter per member up to Base Camp from Lukla and from Base Camp to Lukla

Base Camp Staffs

Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen helpers as per group size

Staff Salary and allowance

All involved Nepalese staffs & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipments, foods & clothing

Base Camp Tent

Each member will have individual tent in Base Camp

Base Camp equipments

Foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dinning tent, 1 Kitchen tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower tents, 1 Staffs tent, 1 tent for Nepalese Base Camp staffs, store tents, Tables, chairs & all necessary cooking gears like Epi gas, high pots, stove, etc.

Tents for High Camps

All tents for Camp 1, 2 and 3 

Heater

Heater at Base Camp in each Dining and other necessary camp

Solar/Generator

1 Solar panel and generator for lights and battery charge for laptop and other electronic devices at Base Camp  

High Altitude Climbing Sherpa

Personal climbing guide/Sherpa (1 climbing member will have 1 climbing guide who is trained, experienced and Government license holder)

Climbing Sherpa Salary & Allowance

Salary, equipments, meals and clothing for climbing guide

Bonus

Carry bonus of Sherpas and route fixing charges

Oxygen (O2) Bottle as Back up Sets

Back up Oxygen Cylinder, mask and regulator (with appropriate additional charge)

High Camp Services

High Altitude Tents, EPI gas, cooking pots, High altitude food for member, Sherpa and other crews at (C1), (C2) and (C3)

Ropes

All required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing

Rope Fixing Team

The team of experienced Sherpa will fix the route in Ama Dablam and Island peak (no extra charge will be applied to members)

Satellite Phone

Satellite Phone for emergency communication available for members with appropriate charge

Walkie-Talkie

Walkie –Talkie for communication from Base Camp to Mountain top and top to Base Camp

Permits

Satellite Phone / walkie-talkie permits

First Aid Kit

Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staffs

Certificate

Certificate (Ama Dablam climbing certificate issued by Tourism Ministry and Island peak climbing certificate by NMA)

Tax and VAT

Tax, VAT and our service charge

 

What Is Excluded?

Lunch & Dinner

Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from trekking / expedition than the scheduled itinerary)

Extra night in Kathmandu

Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu (even in case of early arrival or late departure, early return from trekking / expedition due to any reason than the scheduled itinerary)

Travel Insurance

Medical and personal high risk travel insurance which should cover helicopter evacuation cost and medical treatment cost incase required

Rescue Evacuation

Medical and emergency rescue evacuation cost if required (Rescue, Repatriation, Helicopter, Medication, Medical Tests and Hospitalization costs)

Personal Expenses

Telephone calls, internet, toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers and any alcoholic beverages (However we will provide soft drinks for members at base camp)

Personal Equipments

Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking /climbing Gears

Toiletries

Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and your other personal items used to keep yourself clean

Filming

Permit fee for special filming by using camera or drone

Internet

Internet service is available with extra charge during the trek and Base Camp 

Summit Bonus

Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa

Tips

Tips for Base Camp and other involved staffs

Service above Base Camp

If you are taking just Base Camp services, then there will be zero service from company above base camp

Rope Fixing

The cost for using fixed rope during the expedition will apply to base camp service users

Extra services

Any other services or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary

Ama Dablam Expedition with Island Peak Climb Altitude Profile

Scheduled Departures

SN
Start Date
Trip Duration
Cost Per Person
Availability
Join Group
1
2024-04-06
21 Days
USD 7500
Available

FAQs

Mahalangur Himal Section and Barun Himal Subsection

Nestled within the Mahalangur Himal section and the Barun Himal subsection, Ama Dablam is a prominent figure among the 22 peaks in this stretch. Together, these peaks create a vital corridor for the Imja, Barun, and Hunku Glaciers, contributing to the region's unique and diverse geographical landscape.

6856m of Mountaineering Splendor

The primary summit of Ama Dablam stands proudly at an elevation of 6856 meters, attracting mountaineers from around the globe. Despite being categorized as one of the lesser trekking peaks, Ama Dablam is renowned for its technical challenges, making it a compelling choice for those seeking an exhilarating climb. The allure lies not just in its height but in the formidable obstacles that await climbers.

1961 and Beyond: The Inaugural Conquest

In 1961, a historic moment unfolded as mountaineers Mike Gill, Barry Bishop, Mike Ward, and Wally Romanes successfully conquered Ama Dablam's southwest ridge for the first time. This pioneering ascent marked the beginning of Ama Dablam's reputation as a challenging yet conquerable peak in the Himalayan region.

Camp Setup and the Final Launch

Mountaineers undertaking the Ama Dablam Expedition typically establish three camps as they navigate the challenging terrain before the final ascent. The journey to the summit involves facing blizzards, negotiating hanging glaciers, traversing avalanches, and conquering soaring edges and steep faces. These obstacles contribute to the mountain's allure and establish it as one of the most technically demanding yet intriguing climbs in the Himalayas.

Preparing for the Climb: Tips and Considerations

For those adventurers drawn to the allure of Ama Dablam, thorough preparation is essential. From acclimatization strategies to equipment considerations, meticulous planning ensures a safe and rewarding ascent. Exploring Ama Dablam's mystique requires not just physical strength but also mental fortitude to conquer the challenges that lie ahead.

Additional Information

Mountaineering Equipments
Crampons, Ice axe, Helmet, Harness, Lock and unlock Carabineers, Shovel, Climbing pack, Rope, Ski poles, Desender/abseil device, Jummer  (Asender) , Tapes, Prusik Loops, Rappel device, Hand Warmer (if possible)

Clothing and Wears
Trekking shoes with spare laces, Mountaineering Boots, Plastic or leather for mountaineering boots, Gore-Tex pants, Long shorts, Insulated Parka, Jumper, Waterproof Jackets, Down Jacket, Fleece Vest, Wool cap, Neck Gaiter, Gloves, Climbing Socks, Thermal Underwear, Sandals, Snow Goggle

Essential Gears
Backpack, Duffle bag, Sleeping Bag, sleeping pad, Tents

Gadgets
Map, Compass, Camera, GPS, Two way radios, Binoculars, Head Lamp, Flashlight

Sun Protection Items
Sun glasses, sun scream, Lip balm,

Medical
First aid Kit (Brufen / Ibuprofens, Antibiotic, Diamox, Paracetamol, Handy Plaster, Crack Bandage, Tincture Iodine, etc.)

Other Essentials
Energy Bars, Water bottle, Water Purification Tablets, Toiletries, Trekking poles, Pocket knife, raincoat, Satellite Phone, Altimeter

32 Days

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US$ 7500

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WE ARE MEMBER OF

  • Tourism Department
  • Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal
  • Nepal Mountaineering Association
  • Kathmandu Environmental Education Project
  • Himalayan Rescue Association, Nepal

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