Ama Dablam (6856m) is a most captivating and alluring Himalayan peak located in the famed Everest region. 'Ama Dablam' in the Sherpa language translates into 'Mother's Necklace.' In fact its sheer face of snow and rock resembles a pearl set against the sky, makes it one of the most beautiful peaks of the Himalaya.
Ama Dablam is a popular climbing peak and is perfect for both beginner as well as seasoned mountaineers. Ama Dablam climbing involves a unique melange of experiences from trekking through world heritage listed Sagarmatha National Park, participating in rich Sherpa culture and hospitality to witnessing earth's most beautiful panorama of Himalayan peaks including Everest, Makalu and Lhotse Shar.
First climbed through southwest ridge in 1961 by Mike Gill, Barry Bishop, Mike Ward, and Wally Romanes, Ama Dablam is known for its technical challenges, making it a compelling option for those seeking an exhilarating climb. Climbers will likely face blizzards, hanging glaciers, avalanches, and steep faces. We provide thorough preparation, proper acclimatization period, selection of quality equipment, adequate planning and best Sherpa climbing guides for a safe and successful climbing of Ama Dablam.
- Mahalangur Himal Section and Barun Himal Subsection
Nestled within the Mahalangur Himal section and the Barun Himal subsection, Ama Dablam is a prominent figure among the 22 peaks in this stretch. Together, these peaks create a vital corridor for the Imja, Barun, and Hunku Glaciers, contributing to the region's unique and diverse geographical landscape.
- 6856m of Mountaineering Splendor
The primary summit of Ama Dablam stands proudly at an elevation of 6856 meters, attracting mountaineers from around the globe. Despite being categorized as one of the lesser trekking peaks, Ama Dablam is renowned for its technical challenges, making it a compelling choice for those seeking an exhilarating climb. The allure lies not just in its height but in the formidable obstacles that await climbers.
- 1961 and Beyond: The Inaugural Conquest
In 1961, a historic moment unfolded as mountaineers Mike Gill, Barry Bishop, Mike Ward, and Wally Romanes successfully conquered Ama Dablam's southwest ridge for the first time. This pioneering ascent marked the beginning of Ama Dablam's reputation as a challenging yet conquerable peak in the Himalayan region.
- Camp Setup and the Final Launch
Mountaineers undertaking the Ama Dablam Expedition typically establish three camps as they navigate the challenging terrain before the final ascent. The journey to the summit involves facing blizzards, negotiating hanging glaciers, traversing avalanches, and conquering soaring edges and steep faces. These obstacles contribute to the mountain's allure and establish it as one of the most technically demanding yet intriguing climbs in the Himalayas.
- Preparing for the Climb: Tips and Considerations
For those adventurers drawn to the allure of Ama Dablam, thorough preparation is essential. From acclimatization strategies to equipment considerations, meticulous planning ensures a safe and rewarding ascent. Exploring Ama Dablam's mystique requires not just physical strength but also mental fortitude to conquer the challenges that lie ahead.
On your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, you will be received by our airport representative, then taken to your hotel. In the afternoon, you can take a stroll and visit local shops and sites. Stay overnight at the hotel in Kathmandu.
Today, you will visit popular world heritage monuments in Kathmandu including Kathmandu Durbar Square, Boudha Stupa, Swoyambhu Stupa, and Pashupatinath. Alternatively, you can visit Bhakatapur and Patan for sightseeing. By late afternoon, you will drive back to your hotel. Stay overnight at a hotel in Kathmandu.
Final preparation day in Kathmandu for expedition.
Attend mountaineering briefing given by your Sherpa leader and introduction and interaction with your climbing team. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
After early-morning breakfast, our guide will pick you up from the hotel and drive to Kathmandu domestic airport terminal. Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla (2886m.) that takes about 35 minutes. The flight offers you up close views of the Himalayas and romantic landscapes of hills, farms and rivers. After arriving to Lukla, you will begin 3 hours trek to Phakding (2640 m.). You start your trek from Lukla with a gentle climb up the mountainside on the left bank of the Dudh Koshi River. Mt. Nupla (5885m) which can be seen in the distance is a peak atop the Kongde Ridge. You descend a mountainside path that merges into your route to Everest, with views to a wonderful valley to your right and Mt. Kusum Kang (6367m.) to the far end. Stay overnight at lodge.
This day you trek and cross the river on a high suspension bridge. Beyond Monjo (2800m.) is the entrance to the Sagarmatha National Park which was set up in order to protect and preserve this fragile mountain biodiversity. You then ascend quite steeply to Namche and if the weather is clear you will catch a first glimpse of Mt Everest in the distance in addition to Mt. Kusum Kangaru, Thamserku, Kongde-Ri and Tawoche peak. You can also visit some of the village monasteries along the way until Namche Bazaar (3440 m.). Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar.
It is an ideal place to spend a rest day for acclimatization with the high altitude before moving ahead. For the acclimatization you walk up to Khunde Hospital which was set up by the late Sir Edmund Hillary, or instead do a one hour walk up to Syangboche (3800m.) where Everest View Hotel is situated for outstanding views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. You can also get good views from the National Park Center and Museum just above the town. Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar.
From Namche, the trail contours around the side of the valley, high above the Dudh Kosi. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, the trail descends steeply to a bridge over the river Dudh Koshi at Phunki Tenga (3250m.).The village has an excellent place for lunch and you can take a short rest before making the steep climb to Tyangboche. Stay overnight at lodge in Tyangboche.
Today you will enjoy a short hike to nearly 4000m altitude. The trail crosses the Imja Khola then takes 3 hrs of gradual climb to Pangboche. Stay overnight at lodge.
You will take a full day rest for acclimatization with the climate. You can enjoy short local excursion around the village and ancient monastery. Stay overnight at lodge.
After warm breakfast, you will start your adventurous journey towards Ama Dablam Base Camp. The trail once again crosses the Imja Khola and then begins to climb gaining considerable height. All around you is uninhabited and unspoilt landscape with towering Ama Dablam forms an amazing backdrop. Along the way you will pass through meadow and a pristine lake. Once in the Base Camp you will witness other mountain peaks too including Everest, Makalu, Lhotse Shar, Baruntse, Nuptse, Taboche, Thamserku, Cholatse etc. Stay overnight at camp.
Ama Dablam Mountain climbing period (summit Ama Dablam and return to Base Camp). Stay all nights at camp.
Base Camp (4600 m): Situated on a large grassy meadow with a wonderful views of moutnains
Advance Base Camp (5400 m): There is a rough track over very rocky terrain, which we use from Base Camp to Advance Base Camp.Camp I (5800 m): Your first real climb begins from Advance Base Camp and it takes about 3 hours. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. You will sometimes fix rope to be used as a handrail.
Camp I to Camp II (6000 m):
This route mostly involves rock climbing. You follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you will be grateful for the fixed ropes in place. You can also use your Jumar to help you over the odd spots of difficulties. Most of the climbing on this section is traversing on rock, so good rock climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.
Camp II: Situated on top of the Yellow Tower on a narrow platform, this camp site is rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you dropped your cup from here, it would probably land in the base camp!
Camp II to Camp III (6300m):
Now, for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route, we follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the purpose of camp three.
Camp III:
A cold and exposed position is the start of your summit push. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times unfortunately funnel the wind to this location. It is, however, the only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit.
Summit day:
The initial route is to the right of the huge “Dablam” (ice cliff), up a moderately steep slope. Once past this feature we move toward the centre of the face. The angle eases slightly and a couple of tough hours later we emerge on the summit (6812 m). The summit is the size of a tennis court and allows us to move around and take pictures. Five of the world’s six highest peaks are clearly visible, with many other 7000m and lesser peaks rewarding your great efforts.
Before we make final departure from the Base Camp, the entire team will be involved in cleaning the Base Camp. We take wastes back with us and avoid leaving any litter. You will retrace your steps back to Pangboche. Stay overnight at lodge.
Trek from Pangboche to Namche takes about 5 hours. Stay overnight at lodge.
Your final day's trekking follows the Dudh Koshi back down to Lukla. Stay overnight at lodge.
After morning breakfast, take an early flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Enjoy a full rest day in Kathmandu for shopping and recreation. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
As per your flight schedule, our airport representative will transfer you from your hotel to the airport for your final departure.
Pick-up and drop-off service
All airport pick-up and drop-off services by private vehicle
Accommodation in Kathmandu
5 night hotel accommodation with breakfast
Sightseeing in Kathmandu
One full day city sightseeing in and around Kathmandu valley with private A/C vehicle and English speaking tour guide including entrance fees
Farewell Dinner
Farewell dinner in Kathmandu with live cultural performance at authentic Nepali restaurant on the last evening
Souvenir
Flight Tickets
Flight tickets from Kathmandu to Lukla and Lukla to Kathmandu
All permits
Expedition royalty and permit from Government of Nepal to climb Ama Dablam, entry permit for Sagarmatha National Park, TIMS card and Local government entrance fee
Liaison Officer
1 Government Liaison officer with full equipments, salary, accommodation, transportation and insurance as per government rule
Garbage Management Fee
Garbage transfer & garbage disposal fees
Insurance
Medical & Emergency rescue insurance for all involved Nepalese staffs during the entire trip as per government rule
Expedition Stuffs Transportation
All necessary equipments transportation for all climbing members and staffs from Kathmandu to Lukla and Lukla to Kathmandu by air cargo, Lukla to Base Camp and back to Lukla by porters / yaks
Member Luggage
Up to 50 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carrying by porters /yaks
Food
3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch and dinner) including tea and coffee during the trek and Base Camp, appropriate foods for high altitude to all climbing crews at Base Camp and above
Lodging
Lodge based accommodation during the trek, and well-managed Base Camp set up for climbing members & Staff at Base Camp
Porters
Porter per member up to Base Camp from Lukla and from Base Camp to Lukla
Base Camp Staffs
Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen helpers as per group size
Staff Salary and allowance
All involved Nepalese staffs & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipments, foods & clothing
Base Camp Tent
Each member will have individual tent in Base Camp
Base Camp equipments
Foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dinning tent, 1 Kitchen tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower tents, 1 Staffs tent, 1 tent for Nepalese Base Camp staffs, store tents, Tables, chairs & all necessary cooking gears like Epi gas, high pots, stove, etc.
Tents for High Camps
All tents for Camp 1, 2, and 3
Heater
Heater at Base Camp in each Dining and other necessary camp
Solar/Generator
1 Solar panel and generator for lights and battery charge for laptop and other electronic devices at Base Camp
High Altitude Climbing Sherpa
Personal climbing guide/Sherpa (1 climbing member will have 1 climbing guide who is trained, experienced and Government license holder)
Climbing Sherpa Salary & Allowance
Salary, equipments, meals and clothing for climbing guide
Bonus
Carry bonus of Sherpas and route fixing charges
Oxygen (O2) Bottle as Back up Sets
Back up Oxygen Cylinder, mask and regulator (with appropriate additional charge)
High Camp Services
High Altitude Tents, EPI gas, cooking pots, High altitude food for member, Sherpa and other crews at (C1) (C2) and (C3)
Ropes
All required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing
Rope Fixing Team
The team of experienced Sherpa will fix the route in Ama Dablam (no extra charge will be applied to members)
Satellite Phone
Satellite Phone for emergency communication available for members with appropriate charge
Walkie-Talkie
Walkie –Talkie for communication from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp
Permits
Satellite Phone / walkie-talkie permits
First Aid Kit
Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staffs
Certificate
Certificate (Ama Dablam climbing certificate issued by Tourism Ministry after climbing Mt. Ama Dablam successfully)
Tax and VAT
Tax, VAT and our service charge
Lunch & Dinner
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from trekking / expedition than the scheduled itinerary)
Extra night in Kathmandu
Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu (even in case of early arrival or late departure, early return from trekking / expedition due to any reason than the scheduled itinerary)
Travel Insurance
Medical and personal high risk travel insurance which should cover helicopter evacuation cost and medical treatment cost incase required
Rescue Evacuation
Medical and emergency rescue evacuation cost if required (Rescue, Repatriation, Helicopter, Medication, Medical Tests and Hospitalization costs)
Personal Expenses
Telephone calls, internet, toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers and any alcoholic beverages (However we will provide soft drinks for members at base camp)
Personal Equipments
Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking /climbing Gears
Toiletries
Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and your other personal items used to keep yourself clean
Filming
Permit fee for special filming by using camera or drone
Internet
Internet service is available with extra charge during the trek and Base Camp
Summit Bonus
Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa
Tips
Tips for Base Camp and other involved staffs
Service above Base Camp
If you are taking just Base Camp services, then there will be zero service from company above base camp
Rope Fixing
The cost for using fixed rope during the expedition will apply to base camp service users
Extra services
Any other services or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
Ama Dablam rises to an impressive 6,812 meters (22,349 feet) above sea level. Located in the Khumbu region of eastern Nepal, it is one of the most iconic and visually stunning peaks in the Himalayas. The name "Ama Dablam" means "Mother’s Necklace," which refers to the long ridges on each side (the arms of a mother) and a hanging glacier (the pendant), making the mountain one of the most recognizable in the world.
Ama Dablam is considered one of the most technically demanding peaks under 7,000 meters. The climb involves sustained sections of rock climbing, mixed snow and ice, and exposure to objective hazards like rockfall and avalanches. The Southwest Ridge, the standard route, features steep rock pitches, fixed ropes, traverses, and narrow ridgelines. Climbers must be confident in alpine climbing techniques and capable of moving efficiently at high altitude in extreme conditions.
Yes. Ama Dablam is not suitable for novice climbers. Participants must have prior experience on technical alpine routes, ideally including multi-pitch rock climbing, fixed rope systems, abseiling/rappelling, and ice climbing. Experience on other high-altitude peaks above 6,000 meters (such as Island Peak, Lobuche East, or Denali) is strongly recommended. Most guiding companies will require a resume of past climbs to ensure safety and preparedness.
The most popular and reliable times to climb Ama Dablam are during the pre-monsoon (April to early June) and post-monsoon (late September to early November) seasons. Of these, October is the most favored month due to stable weather, minimal precipitation, and clear skies. These windows offer the safest conditions, although climbers must always be prepared for rapidly changing mountain weather.
An Ama Dablam expedition usually spans around 25 to 30 days. This includes trekking from Lukla to base camp, a period of acclimatization, establishing multiple high camps, and allowing for flexibility for summit attempts based on weather. Some climbers may also include acclimatization climbs on nearby peaks like Island Peak beforehand.
The standard route via the Southwest Ridge is both beautiful and challenging. After base camp (4,570m), climbers ascend to Camp 1 (5,700m) over rocky terrain. From there, the route becomes increasingly technical with steep rock sections leading to Camp 2 (6,000m), which is perched on a narrow ledge. The route from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6,300m) and onward to the summit involves steep ice and snow climbing, fixed ropes, and significant exposure. Camp 3 is located below the Dablam (ice cliff), and some teams choose to climb directly from Camp 2 to the summit to avoid hazards.
Typically, expeditions use three high camps:
Camp 1 (5,700m): Reached after a long rock scramble; used to begin technical climbing.
Camp 2 (6,000m): Very small and exposed; located just below the Grey Tower.
Camp 3 (6,300m): Situated near the Dablam (ice cliff), though recent icefall dangers have led many teams to skip Camp 3 and summit from Camp 2.
Yes, climbing Ama Dablam requires several permits:
Ama Dablam Climbing Permit from the Nepal Ministry of Tourism
Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit
Khumbu Rural Municipality (Local Area) Permit
While it is legally possible to climb without a guide, Ama Dablam’s technical difficulty, logistical complexity, and objective dangers make it highly advisable to go with a reputable guiding company or at least hire local climbing Sherpa support. Most climbers opt for full-service expeditions which include logistics, fixed rope setup, camp infrastructure, and emergency planning.
Risks on Ama Dablam include:
Altitude sickness (AMS, HAPE, HACE)
Falls or injuries on steep/exposed terrain
Rockfall or icefall, particularly above Camp 2 and near the Dablam
Avalanche risks in poor weather
Extreme cold and weather changes
Proper acclimatization, guided support, and cautious climbing practices are key to minimizing risk.
Climbers must be in exceptional physical condition. Training should include:
Endurance workouts (long hikes, stair climbs, running)
Strength training, especially for core and legs
Technical climbing practice on rock and ice
Altitude preparation, such as training at elevation or using hypoxic tents
Climbers should be able to carry a pack for hours, move confidently in technical terrain, and maintain stamina for multiple summit attempt days.
Yes, altitude illness is a major concern. Symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) can begin above 2,500 meters, and Ama Dablam’s camps are all above this threshold. A gradual ascent, proper acclimatization schedule, hydration, and awareness of symptoms are critical. Serious conditions like HAPE (pulmonary edema) or HACE (cerebral edema) require immediate descent and medical attention.
Most professional expeditions are equipped with:
Satellite phones or Garmin inReach devices
VHF radios for camp-to-climber communication
GPS tracking and weather updates
Helicopter evacuation arrangements via local rescue services (insurance required)
Participants are strongly encouraged to have travel and rescue insurance that covers high-altitude climbing in Nepal.
Ama Dablam is often seen as a "climber’s mountain" and is not ideal for beginners in the Himalayas. However, for those with strong technical climbing backgrounds and prior altitude experience, it can be a perfect first technical Himalayan expedition. Many climbers use it as preparation for 8,000-meter peaks like Everest or Lhotse.
Mountaineering Equipments
Crampons, Ice axe, Helmet, Harness, Lock and unlock Carabineers, Shovel, Climbing pack, Rope, Ski poles, Desender/abseil device, Jummer (Asender) , Tapes, Prusik Loops, Rappel device, Hand Warmer (if possible)
Clothing and Wears
Trekking shoes with spare laces, Mountaineering Boots, Plastic or leather for mountaineering boots, Gore-Tex pants, Long shorts, Insulated Parka, Jumper, Waterproof Jackets, Down Jacket, Fleece Vest, Wool cap, Neck Gaiter, Gloves, Climbing Socks, Thermal Underwear, Sandals, Snow Goggle
Essential Gears
Backpack, Duffle bag, Sleeping Bag, sleeping pad, Tents
Gadgets
Map, Compass, Camera, GPS, Two way radios, Binoculars, Head Lamp, Flashlight
Sun Protection Items
Sun glasses, sun scream, Lip balm,
Medical
First aid Kit (Brufen / Ibuprofens, Antibiotic, Diamox, Paracetamol, Handy Plaster, Crack Bandage, Tincture Iodine, etc.)
Other Essentials
Energy Bars, Water bottle, Water Purification Tablets, Toiletries, Trekking poles, Pocket knife, raincoat, Satellite Phone, Altimeter
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