Abi Peak Climbing (6043m.)

Abi Peak Climbing (6043m.)

Overview And Highlights

Trip Facts

Trip Type

Tea House / Camping

Grade

Strenuous

Altitude

6043 m.

Transportation

Ktm-Lukla-Ktm by Flight

Group Size

1 or more

Best Season

Spring and Autumn
Duration
24 Days
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  • Book now, pay later

Mt Abi (6043m.) is situated in the Khumbu Himal range located in the Mahalangur Solukhumbu region of Nepal. The mountain is also known as Cholo and Kangchung from the pass that reaches it – the Kangchung La. Mountaineers planning to climb the 8,000ers, consider Mt Abi as a perfect training mountain for ice climbing and high altitude acclimatization. Mt Abi requires careful ascent due to the technical ridges towards its peak. This peak was first issued a climbing permit in 2002 and although it is classed as moderate, it has been climbed less than 6 times. The recognized route is Lukla-Merala-BC.

The description to climbing Mount Abi (6097m.), a trekking peak in Nepal’s Khumbu region, painted a picture of accessible 45°- 50° snow slopes up a straight-forward ridge to the summit but as a footnote mentions that it hadn’t seen many ascents.

Itinerary Expand All Close All

Food
Welcome Drink
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1400

On your arrival at Kathmandu International Airport, you will be greeted with flower garlands/Khadas. Our representative will then take you to your hotel. If time prevails, you will visit office for paperwork.

Stay overnight at the hotel in Kathmandu.

Food
Breakfast
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1400

Today, you will visit popular world heritage monuments in Kathmandu including Kathmandu Durbar Square, Boudhanath, Swoyambhunath, and Pashupatinath. Alternatively, you can choose Bhakatapur and Patan sightseeing.  By late afternoon you will drive back to your hotel.

Stay overnight at a hotel in Kathmandu.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
2640

After early-morning breakfast, our guide will pick you up from the hotel and drive to the domestic airport terminal. Receive your boarding pass and fly from Kathmandu to Lukla (2886m.) that takes about 35 minutes. The flight offers you up close views of the Himalayas and romantic landscapes of hills, farms and rivers.

On arrival to Lukla, you will begin 3 hours trek to Phakding (2640 m.). You start your trek from Lukla with a gentle climb up the mountainside on the left bank of the Dudh Koshi River. Mt. Nupla (5885m) which can be seen in the distance is a peak atop the Kongde Ridge. You descend a mountainside path that merges into your route to Everest, with views to a wonderful valley to your right; and Mt. Kusum Kang (6367m.) to the far end.

Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3440

Namche Bazaar (3440m) is surrounded on three sides by mountain ranges and opens out only where it faces the Bhote Koshi.

Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3440

It is an ideal place to spend a rest day for acclimatization to the high altitude before heading off towards Tyangboche. For acclimatization you walk up to Khumjung where you can visit a monastery. You can also enjoy the splendid views of Everest, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Nuptse, Lhotse, Tawoche, and Kwangde and so on. Or you can take an hour's walk up to Syangboche (3800m.) where Everest View Hotel is situated above Namche for an outstanding view of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru.

Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
4040

From Namche the route heads up all the way to Khumjung, a picturesque village which also has its own Gompa at the top end of town. Soon after leaving Khumjung the trail climbs to a large chorten on top of a ridge. This ridge descends from Khumbila, a 5734m peak, said to be the abode of the patron God of the Khumbu region. The trail descends slightly towards the Sanasa and then trail ascends up to Mongla (4000m.). From here, you can see panoramic views of various mountains. You trek steeply descending the pass through Phortse Tenga and from there, the trail climbs steeply to Dole, through rhododendron and birch forest festooned with hanging mosses and lichens. You can enjoy a delicious meal at Phortse Tenga (3650m.).

Stay overnight in lodge.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
4150

From Dole you climb steadily along the side of the valley, where small and thorny bushes give way to scrub juniper as the altitude increases. The trail passes many summer settlements. Ahead of you presents majestic views of Cho Oyu, while back down the valley are the peaks of Kangtega and Thamserku. This is a short day and you will arrive at Machermo in time for lunch.

Stay overnight in lodge.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
4750

Today you head for the lakes at Gokyo. You follow a very scenic path to Pangka and then descend slightly, following one of the melted-water. Rivers flow down the west side of the Ngozumpa Glacier. You climb a steep rocky incline into the valley by the side of the glacier, passing the first of the holy lakes. You soon arrive at the second of the lakes, crossing the path which heads across the glacier to Cho La (5420m.), your route to Lobuche and Everest and later in the trek. The third lake is known as Dudh Pokhari and on its eastern shore is the settlement of Gokyo.

Stay overnight in lodge.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
4750

Gokyo is a trade centre where the Sherpa people run lodges to provide the best services to trekkers. Gokyo is situated by the side of Ngozumpa glacier, the biggest glacier of Nepal. This day you can also take a trip to the Fifth Lake via the Fourth Lake.

Stay overnight in lodge.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
5340

Gokyo Ri looms above the village on the northern edge of the lake and you leave camp just after first light, following a steep path up the hillside. As you climb, the summits of Everest, Lhotse and Makalu slowly come into sight and the view from the summit of Gokyo Ri itself, is one of the finest to be had in the Everest region - some say it is even better than that from Kala Patthar. After lunch it is a short walk to the village of Thangna, situated at the shore of the Ngozumpa Glacier.

Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Camp
Elevation
5355

Today, you will trek from Thangna to Mt. Abi Peak Base Camp. Stay overnight at camp.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Camp
Elevation
5355

Today is your acclimatization day at Abi Base Camp. Stay overnight at camp.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Camp
Elevation
5610

Today, you will climb from Abi Peak Base Camp to High Camp. Stay overnight at camp.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Camp
Elevation
6043

Today, you will summit Abi Peak and descend down to High Camp. Stay overnight at camp.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Camp
Elevation
5355

Today, you will down to Abi Base Camp. Stay overnight at camp.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
5420

Trek from Abi Base Camp to Zongla via Chola Pass. The Chola pass is most of the time covered with blue ice giving you a chill feeling. Here you can also enjoy the panoramic view of various mountains. From here, the trail descends steeply down for an hour and then slightly descends all the way to Dzongla.

Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
5180

From Dzongla the trail descends and ascends gently and contours around the west side of the Lobuche Khola, providing excellent views of Ama Dablam, the Nuptse-Lhotse wall and Everest. The trail coming from Pheriche meets at the Lobuche Khola (Lobuche Stream).

Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
5337

While trekking to Everest Base Camp you pass through a trail, which weaves its way through ice pinnacles and past the crevasses of the Khumbu Glacier. During the spring season, you can meet some expedition team on the Everest Base Camp. On the return leg, you can take a higher route to get a spectacular view of the Khumbu icefall and numerous mountains. You return to Gorakshep to stay overnight.

Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
5545

Early morning climb to Kala Patthar (5545m.) and enjoy the view of sunrise. From Kala Patthar you can have a panoramic view of Mt. Everest and many other mountain peaks like Mt. Pumori, Mt. Lingtren, Mt. Khumbutse, Mt. Nuptse, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Ama Dablam, Mt. Thamserku and many more. The town of Pheriche is known as windy town.

Stay over night at lodge.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3850

To reach Tyangboche you pass through Pangboche village, which is known to have highest permanent settlement throughout the year in Khumbu region. Upon your arrival at Tyangboche village you come across the famous legendary monastery, the largest in the Khumbu region.

Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3440

From Tyangboche, the trail descends steeply and slightly towards Phunki Tenga (3250m.) crossing the Dudh Koshi. Now you have a glimpse of panoramic views of the great peaks of the Khumbu including Mt Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. Passing by several villages and numerous teashops, the trail ascends steeply to Sanasa where local Sherpa people sell the Tibetan goods.

Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
Breakfast/lunch/dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
2886

The last day of your trek leads from Namche Bazaar via Monjo to Lukla. The trek is pleasant, except for few short uphill climbs and then down to the Bhote- Koshi River crossing it three times. The last uphill climb of 45 minutes will bring you to Lukla for your overnight stay.

Stay overnight at lodge.

Food
Breakfast
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1400

You take an early morning flight back to Kathmandu takes about 35 minutes.

Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Food
Breakfast

As per your flight schedule, our airport representative will transfer you from your hotel to the airport for your final departure.

What Is Included ?

a) Kathmandu

  • Airport pick-up and drop-off services by private vehicle
  • 3 night hotel accommodation with breakfast* One day city sightseeing with an English speaking tour guide and private vehicle
  • Farewell dinner in Kathmandu with live cultural performance at authentic Nepali restaurant on the last evening
  • Souvenir

 

b) Trekking

  • Abi peak climbing permit
  • Trekkers' Information Management system (TIMS) card
  • Entry permit for Sagarmatha National Park
  • Entry fee of local municipal government
  • Climbing guides (Sirdar) (one climbing guide for 2 climbers)
  • Equipments fee for the climbing guide/s
  • Required porters including a cook (some nights will be camping and will require cook and cooking utensils)
  • All meals three times a day during the trek/climb
  • Accommodation in teahouses (lodges) for some nights and some nights camping
  • Necessary trekking/camping equipment such as tents, mattresses, sleeping bags, down jackets, duffle bags, rope, Ice axe, Harness, cooking utensils, Epi gas, etc.
  • Round trip flight tickets: Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu
  • Insurance and equipments for the guide and porters
  • First aid kit
  • Tax, VAT and our service charge
  • Rescue assistance (In case of emergency, we will organize prompt and professional rescue services. To arrange timely evacuation/rescue by helicopter, you must be well insured from a reliable travel insurance company that covers both helicopter evacuation and medical treatment cost.)

What Is Excluded?

  • Personal nature expenses (Telephone calls, toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers and any alcoholic beverages)
  • Travel insurance
  • Tips for involved staffs
  • Sherpa summit bonus
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
  • Personal climbing equipments
  • Entrance fees while sightseeing in and around Kathmandu
  • Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu (even in case of early arrival or late departure, early return from trekking due to any personal reason than the scheduled itinerary)

Abi Peak Climbing (6043m.) Altitude Profile

FAQs

Abi Peak is considered moderately difficult — more challenging than a typical trekking route, but not as technical as some of Nepal’s more famous climbing peaks. It involves glacier travel, moderate snow and ice climbing, and high-altitude exposure, but usually doesn’t require extensive technical climbing on vertical ice.

Still, climbers must be prepared for:

  • Using crampons and an ice axe
  • Traversing crevassed glaciers
  • Navigating steep snow slopes
  • Climbing at high altitudes


If you've climbed a peak like Island Peak or Mera Peak before, you'll likely find Abi Peak to be a good next step.

While you don’t need to be a professional climber, previous mountaineering experience is highly recommended. You should already know how to:

  • Walk confidently with crampons on snow and ice
  • Use an ice axe for support or self-arrest
  • Ascend and descend with a rope
  • Trek at high altitudes (above 4500 m)


If Abi Peak is your first climb, it’s important to train well and choose a reliable guide who can provide pre-climb instruction. Many expeditions include a training day at base camp, which helps build confidence and safety skills before the summit attempt.

The best time to climb Abi Peak is during the two main trekking seasons in Nepal:

  • Spring (March to May): Mild weather, good visibility, and vibrant landscapes. There's usually still some snow on the peak, which adds to the challenge but makes for stunning summit photos.
  • Autumn (September to November): Arguably the best time, with stable weather, clear skies, and dry trails. It’s perfect for both trekking and high-altitude climbing.


Winter climbs are possible but not recommended unless you're very experienced, as temperatures drop drastically and snow conditions can be unstable.

A full Abi Peak expedition typically takes about 18–25 days. The itinerary includes:

  • Trekking from Lukla through famous stops like Namche Bazaar, Dole, and Machhermo
  • Acclimatization days (essential for altitude adjustment)
  • A detour through Gokyo Valley
  • Establishing Abi Peak Base Camp
  • A summit push (usually from high camp or directly from base camp)


After the climb, most expeditions loop back via Renjo La Pass or retrace their steps to Lukla.

Climbing Abi Peak requires a combination of climbing and trekking permits. Specifically:

  • Climbing Permit for Abi Peak (issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association – NMA)
  • Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit
  • Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Fee

Costs can vary based on the services included, but a standard expedition costs around $2,000 to $3,500 USD. This typically includes:

  • Domestic flights (Kathmandu to Lukla and back)
  • Trekking and climbing permits
  • Professional guides and porters
  • Accommodation (teahouses and camping)
  • Meals during the trek and climb
  • Group climbing equipment (ropes, tents, cooking gear)


Personal gear rentals, travel insurance, tips, and international flights are usually not included. Always check what’s covered in the package before booking.

Abi Peak requires solid physical conditioning and basic mountaineering skills. Your training should start 3–4 months before the climb and include:

  • Endurance training: Long hikes or treks with a backpack
  • Strength training: Focus on legs, core, and upper body
  • Altitude exposure (if possible): Prior high-altitude treks or simulated altitude training
  • Technical preperation: Practice using crampons, harnesses, and ropes. If you’re new to alpine climbing, consider a mountaineering course in your home country or in Nepal.


Remember: climbing at over 6000 meters is as much mental as it is physical. Consistency and preparation are key.

Yes, altitude sickness is a real concern on Abi Peak. You’ll be climbing to over 6000 meters, which is well into the range where Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE), and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) can occur.

To reduce your risk:

  • Follow a gradual acclimatization schedule
  • Take rest and acclimatization days seriously
  • Drink 3–4 liters of water daily
  • Avoid alcohol and tobacco
  • Know the symptoms and tell your guide if you feel unwell


A good expedition will include proper acclimatization and a flexible schedule to deal with health issues safely.

Abi Peak stands out for a few reasons:

  • Less commercialized: You’ll likely see fewer climbers compared to peaks like Island Peak or Lobuche.
  • Wild, scenic route: The trek through Gokyo Valley and the Renjo La Pass offers jaw-dropping alpine scenery and a sense of solitude.
  • True adventure vibe: Abi Peak has more of an expedition feel, with glacier approach, camping, and remote terrain.


If you're looking for a Himalayan peak that blends challenge, beauty, and tranquility — Abi Peak is a hidden gem worth considering.

Nepal Environmental Treks & Expedition ensures you to provide a well planned itinerary for Abi Peak climbing. An experienced and highly professional climbing guide will be assigned to each climbing member. All necessary logistics will be taken care from our side. However, we expect to maintain good health and physical condition as well as well good mental preparation from your side.
 

Additional Information

Mountaineering Equipments

Crampons, Ice axe, Helmet, Harness, Lock and unlock Carabineers, Shovel, Climbing pack, Rope, Ski poles, Desender/abseil device, Jummer  (Asender) , Tapes, Prusik Loops, Rappel device, Hand Warmer (if possible)

Clothing and Wears

Trekking shoes with spare laces, Mountaineering Boots, Plastic or leather for mountaineering boots, Gore-Tex pants, Long shorts, Insulated Parka, Jumper, Waterproof Jackets, Down Jacket, Fleece Vest, Wool cap, Neck Gaiter, Gloves, Climbing Socks, Thermal Underwear, Sandals, Snow Goggle

Essential Gears

Backpack, Duffle bag, Sleeping Bag, sleeping pad, Tents

Gadgets

Map, Compass, Camera, GPS, Two way radios, Binoculars, Head Lamp, Flashlight

Sun Protection Items

Sun glasses, sun scream, Lip balm

Medical

First aid Kit (Brufen / Ibuprofens, Antibiotic, Diamox, Paracetamol, Handy Plaster, Crack Bandage, Tincture Iodine, etc.)

Other Essentials

Energy Bars, Water bottle, Water Purification Tablets, Toiletries, Trekking poles, Pocket knife, raincoat, Satellite Phone, Altimeter

Duration
24 Days
  • Best price guaranteed
  • Book now, pay later
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