Mt Abi (6043m.) is situated in the Khumbu Himal range located in the Mahalangur Solukhumbu region of Nepal. The mountain is also known as Cholo and Kangchung from the pass that reaches it – the Kangchung La. Mountaineers planning to climb the 8,000ers, consider Mt Abi as a perfect training mountain for ice climbing and high altitude acclimatization. Mt Abi requires careful ascent due to the technical ridges towards its peak. This peak was first issued a climbing permit in 2002 and although it is classed as moderate, it has been climbed less than 6 times. The recognized route is Lukla-Merala-BC.
The description to climbing Mount Abi (6097m.), a trekking peak in Nepal’s Khumbu region, painted a picture of accessible 45°- 50° snow slopes up a straight-forward ridge to the summit but as a footnote mentions that it hadn’t seen many ascents.
On your arrival at Kathmandu International Airport, you will be greeted with flower garlands/Khadas. Our representative will then take you to your hotel. If time prevails, you will visit office for paperwork.
Stay overnight at the hotel in Kathmandu.
Today, you will visit popular world heritage monuments in Kathmandu including Kathmandu Durbar Square, Boudhanath, Swoyambhunath, and Pashupatinath. Alternatively, you can choose Bhakatapur and Patan sightseeing. By late afternoon you will drive back to your hotel.
Stay overnight at a hotel in Kathmandu.
After early-morning breakfast, our guide will pick you up from the hotel and drive to the domestic airport terminal. Receive your boarding pass and fly from Kathmandu to Lukla (2886m.) that takes about 35 minutes. The flight offers you up close views of the Himalayas and romantic landscapes of hills, farms and rivers.
On arrival to Lukla, you will begin 3 hours trek to Phakding (2640 m.). You start your trek from Lukla with a gentle climb up the mountainside on the left bank of the Dudh Koshi River. Mt. Nupla (5885m) which can be seen in the distance is a peak atop the Kongde Ridge. You descend a mountainside path that merges into your route to Everest, with views to a wonderful valley to your right; and Mt. Kusum Kang (6367m.) to the far end.
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Namche Bazaar (3440m) is surrounded on three sides by mountain ranges and opens out only where it faces the Bhote Koshi.
Stay overnight at lodge.
It is an ideal place to spend a rest day for acclimatization to the high altitude before heading off towards Tyangboche. For acclimatization you walk up to Khumjung where you can visit a monastery. You can also enjoy the splendid views of Everest, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Nuptse, Lhotse, Tawoche, and Kwangde and so on. Or you can take an hour's walk up to Syangboche (3800m.) where Everest View Hotel is situated above Namche for an outstanding view of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru.
Stay overnight at lodge.
From Namche the route heads up all the way to Khumjung, a picturesque village which also has its own Gompa at the top end of town. Soon after leaving Khumjung the trail climbs to a large chorten on top of a ridge. This ridge descends from Khumbila, a 5734m peak, said to be the abode of the patron God of the Khumbu region. The trail descends slightly towards the Sanasa and then trail ascends up to Mongla (4000m.). From here, you can see panoramic views of various mountains. You trek steeply descending the pass through Phortse Tenga and from there, the trail climbs steeply to Dole, through rhododendron and birch forest festooned with hanging mosses and lichens. You can enjoy a delicious meal at Phortse Tenga (3650m.).
Stay overnight in lodge.
From Dole you climb steadily along the side of the valley, where small and thorny bushes give way to scrub juniper as the altitude increases. The trail passes many summer settlements. Ahead of you presents majestic views of Cho Oyu, while back down the valley are the peaks of Kangtega and Thamserku. This is a short day and you will arrive at Machermo in time for lunch.
Stay overnight in lodge.
Today you head for the lakes at Gokyo. You follow a very scenic path to Pangka and then descend slightly, following one of the melted-water. Rivers flow down the west side of the Ngozumpa Glacier. You climb a steep rocky incline into the valley by the side of the glacier, passing the first of the holy lakes. You soon arrive at the second of the lakes, crossing the path which heads across the glacier to Cho La (5420m.), your route to Lobuche and Everest and later in the trek. The third lake is known as Dudh Pokhari and on its eastern shore is the settlement of Gokyo.
Stay overnight in lodge.
Gokyo is a trade centre where the Sherpa people run lodges to provide the best services to trekkers. Gokyo is situated by the side of Ngozumpa glacier, the biggest glacier of Nepal. This day you can also take a trip to the Fifth Lake via the Fourth Lake.
Stay overnight in lodge.
Gokyo Ri looms above the village on the northern edge of the lake and you leave camp just after first light, following a steep path up the hillside. As you climb, the summits of Everest, Lhotse and Makalu slowly come into sight and the view from the summit of Gokyo Ri itself, is one of the finest to be had in the Everest region - some say it is even better than that from Kala Patthar. After lunch it is a short walk to the village of Thangna, situated at the shore of the Ngozumpa Glacier.
Stay overnight at lodge.
Today, you will trek from Thangna to Mt. Abi Peak Base Camp. Stay overnight at camp.
Today is your acclimatization day at Abi Base Camp. Stay overnight at camp.
Today, you will climb from Abi Peak Base Camp to High Camp. Stay overnight at camp.
Today, you will summit Abi Peak and descend down to High Camp. Stay overnight at camp.
Today, you will down to Abi Base Camp. Stay overnight at camp.
Trek from Abi Base Camp to Zongla via Chola Pass. The Chola pass is most of the time covered with blue ice giving you a chill feeling. Here you can also enjoy the panoramic view of various mountains. From here, the trail descends steeply down for an hour and then slightly descends all the way to Dzongla.
Stay overnight at lodge.
From Dzongla the trail descends and ascends gently and contours around the west side of the Lobuche Khola, providing excellent views of Ama Dablam, the Nuptse-Lhotse wall and Everest. The trail coming from Pheriche meets at the Lobuche Khola (Lobuche Stream).
Stay overnight at lodge.
While trekking to Everest Base Camp you pass through a trail, which weaves its way through ice pinnacles and past the crevasses of the Khumbu Glacier. During the spring season, you can meet some expedition team on the Everest Base Camp. On the return leg, you can take a higher route to get a spectacular view of the Khumbu icefall and numerous mountains. You return to Gorakshep to stay overnight.
Stay overnight at lodge.
Early morning climb to Kala Patthar (5545m.) and enjoy the view of sunrise. From Kala Patthar you can have a panoramic view of Mt. Everest and many other mountain peaks like Mt. Pumori, Mt. Lingtren, Mt. Khumbutse, Mt. Nuptse, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Ama Dablam, Mt. Thamserku and many more. The town of Pheriche is known as windy town.
Stay over night at lodge.
To reach Tyangboche you pass through Pangboche village, which is known to have highest permanent settlement throughout the year in Khumbu region. Upon your arrival at Tyangboche village you come across the famous legendary monastery, the largest in the Khumbu region.
Stay overnight at lodge.
From Tyangboche, the trail descends steeply and slightly towards Phunki Tenga (3250m.) crossing the Dudh Koshi. Now you have a glimpse of panoramic views of the great peaks of the Khumbu including Mt Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. Passing by several villages and numerous teashops, the trail ascends steeply to Sanasa where local Sherpa people sell the Tibetan goods.
Stay overnight at lodge.
The last day of your trek leads from Namche Bazaar via Monjo to Lukla. The trek is pleasant, except for few short uphill climbs and then down to the Bhote- Koshi River crossing it three times. The last uphill climb of 45 minutes will bring you to Lukla for your overnight stay.
Stay overnight at lodge.
You take an early morning flight back to Kathmandu takes about 35 minutes.
Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
As per your flight schedule, our airport representative will transfer you from your hotel to the airport for your final departure.
Abi Peak is considered moderately difficult — more challenging than a typical trekking route, but not as technical as some of Nepal’s more famous climbing peaks. It involves glacier travel, moderate snow and ice climbing, and high-altitude exposure, but usually doesn’t require extensive technical climbing on vertical ice.
Still, climbers must be prepared for:
If you've climbed a peak like Island Peak or Mera Peak before, you'll likely find Abi Peak to be a good next step.
While you don’t need to be a professional climber, previous mountaineering experience is highly recommended. You should already know how to:
If Abi Peak is your first climb, it’s important to train well and choose a reliable guide who can provide pre-climb instruction. Many expeditions include a training day at base camp, which helps build confidence and safety skills before the summit attempt.
The best time to climb Abi Peak is during the two main trekking seasons in Nepal:
Winter climbs are possible but not recommended unless you're very experienced, as temperatures drop drastically and snow conditions can be unstable.
A full Abi Peak expedition typically takes about 18–25 days. The itinerary includes:
After the climb, most expeditions loop back via Renjo La Pass or retrace their steps to Lukla.
Climbing Abi Peak requires a combination of climbing and trekking permits. Specifically:
Costs can vary based on the services included, but a standard expedition costs around $2,000 to $3,500 USD. This typically includes:
Personal gear rentals, travel insurance, tips, and international flights are usually not included. Always check what’s covered in the package before booking.
Abi Peak requires solid physical conditioning and basic mountaineering skills. Your training should start 3–4 months before the climb and include:
Remember: climbing at over 6000 meters is as much mental as it is physical. Consistency and preparation are key.
Yes, altitude sickness is a real concern on Abi Peak. You’ll be climbing to over 6000 meters, which is well into the range where Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE), and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) can occur.
To reduce your risk:
A good expedition will include proper acclimatization and a flexible schedule to deal with health issues safely.
Abi Peak stands out for a few reasons:
If you're looking for a Himalayan peak that blends challenge, beauty, and tranquility — Abi Peak is a hidden gem worth considering.
Nepal Environmental Treks & Expedition ensures you to provide a well planned itinerary for Abi Peak climbing. An experienced and highly professional climbing guide will be assigned to each climbing member. All necessary logistics will be taken care from our side. However, we expect to maintain good health and physical condition as well as well good mental preparation from your side.
Mountaineering Equipments
Crampons, Ice axe, Helmet, Harness, Lock and unlock Carabineers, Shovel, Climbing pack, Rope, Ski poles, Desender/abseil device, Jummer (Asender) , Tapes, Prusik Loops, Rappel device, Hand Warmer (if possible)
Clothing and Wears
Trekking shoes with spare laces, Mountaineering Boots, Plastic or leather for mountaineering boots, Gore-Tex pants, Long shorts, Insulated Parka, Jumper, Waterproof Jackets, Down Jacket, Fleece Vest, Wool cap, Neck Gaiter, Gloves, Climbing Socks, Thermal Underwear, Sandals, Snow Goggle
Essential Gears
Backpack, Duffle bag, Sleeping Bag, sleeping pad, Tents
Gadgets
Map, Compass, Camera, GPS, Two way radios, Binoculars, Head Lamp, Flashlight
Sun Protection Items
Sun glasses, sun scream, Lip balm
Medical
First aid Kit (Brufen / Ibuprofens, Antibiotic, Diamox, Paracetamol, Handy Plaster, Crack Bandage, Tincture Iodine, etc.)
Other Essentials
Energy Bars, Water bottle, Water Purification Tablets, Toiletries, Trekking poles, Pocket knife, raincoat, Satellite Phone, Altimeter
