
Dhaulagiri expedition offers an extraordinary piece of climbing, a very demanding and daunting challenge. The views from the top affords a fantastic view of adjacent Dhaulgairi peaks, Annapurna, Macchapuchre, Manaslu and the Kali Gandaki valley including the deepest gorge in the world. 34 kilometres east from Dhaulagiri I, Annapurna I is located and in between these two peaks there exists a gorge known as Kaligandaki Gorge, which is the deepest gorge in the world. Kaligandaki River flows into this gorge.
Dhaulagiri, a highly desirable and fascinating peak to climb, is the 6th highest peak in Nepal and the 7th highest peak of the world. It is located at the northwest corridor of Magdi District. It is one of the above 8000 meters peaks that lie entirely in Nepal. The word Dhaulagiri is derived from two Sanskrit words Dhawala and Giri which means “White Mountain”.
Dhaulagiri region remained largely unknown till a Swiss aerial survey occurred in 1949. The French Annapurna expedition team was granted permission in 1950 to climb either Annapurna or Dhaulagiri, but they decided to climb Annapurna at that time. The first successful ascent of Dhaulagiri Mountain was made on 13th May, 1960 by eight members of a Swiss/Austrian expedition team led by Kurt Diemberger including Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji. Before the first successful summit of Dhaulagiri in 1960, four other expedition teams were unable to keep their foot on the top.
Dhaulagiri expedition requires about four weeks of time including 7-10 days trekking reaching Base Camp located at an altitude of 4748 m. The first camp is located at 5850 meters, second camp is at 6400 meters and third camp is at 7400 meters. Multiple routes are available to scale Dhaulagiri Mountain. However, climbing Dhaulagiri via the North East Ridge is considered as a standard route. It consists of three High Camps above the Base Camp. It is one of the difficult and technical mountains that require special climbing/mountaineering skills. Because of it, only veteran mountaineers keep their eyes on Dhaulagiri Mountain. There are two routes to begin your journey to Base Camp. You can either drive to Marpha and start trekking from there or drive to Darbang from west and start trekking from there. The latter one is more common and popular as it takes few more days which is good for acclimatization. The time duration to complete Dhaulagiri expedition is about 7 weeks for both routes from your arrival to departure.
Nepal Environmental Treks & Expedition commits to provide professional services for Dhaulagiri expedition. We are also flexible to customize the itinerary according to climber’s requirements. If you are in search of reliable, trustworthy, experienced and highly capable agency, you are at the right place to inquire.
On your arrival at Kathmandu International Airport, you will be greeted with flower garlands/Khadas. Our representative will then take you to your hotel. If time prevails, you will visit office for paperwork. Stay overnight at the hotel in Kathmandu.
Today, you will visit popular world heritage monuments in Kathmandu including Kathmandu Durbar Square, Boudhanath, Swoyambhunath, and Pashupatinath. Alternatively, you can choose Bhakatapur and Patan sightseeing. By late afternoon you will drive back to your hotel. Stay overnight at a hotel in Kathmandu.
Final preparation day in Kathmandu for expedition. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
You follow the Marshyangdi gently up through heavily terraced fields and small hill towns to the Seti River that takes you directly into Pokhara. Pokhara is tourist's paradise with lakes, caves, temples of Buddhist and Hindus along with beautiful mountains. It then descends to Nayapul with views of Annapurna South, Fish tail, green hills, terraces and villages. To reach Beni, your drive moves along the bank of the Mardi River. This is one of the most picturesque road journeys. You can also fly to Pokhara from Kathmandu and drive to Beni. Stay overnight at lodge.
Same day, you will trek from Darbang to Takum takes about 4 hours. This day your trek ascends through a narrow path for early one hour. Next, you go along the flat land passing through jungle with varieties of rhododendrons, oaks and Christmas trees at some distance. After you cross a small stream, your trail follows an ascending path until you reach Takum. Here, you camp behind the school located in central Takum. Here you will also find a Hindu temple where the villagers go to submit their offerings. Stay overnight at camp.
You start trekking on a descending trail for an early one hour passing through jungle. Then you follow an ascending path and before you approach Muri you pass along flat land until you reach Muri. This is a small village mainly inhabited by Gurung and Rai, one of the ethnic communities of Nepal. Stay overnight at camp.
Trek from Muri to Naura (1570 m.) takes about 5 hours. Stay overnight at camp.
Soon you descend through a forested area, emerging to a ridge snout where Bagar (2080) is visible. Descend through terraced fields to this mountain village where you camp in people's yards or the terraced fields. Stay overnight at camp.
Here, you leave the villages behind and the trial becomes increasingly challenging. Stay overnight at camp.
Trek from Dovan to Chaur Bag Khola. takes about 5 hours. It is also known as Sallaghari. Stay overnight at camp.
Passing through the beautiful forest you rapidly gain altitude and mountains burst out all around. You camp for the night.
After crossing the first glacier, probably using a rope in a couple of tricky spots, you climb onto the main glacier. The surroundings are spectacular which makes up for the rough and dangerous trail. We may also use a rope on this section. This is a particularly tough day. You camp on the glacier rubble. Stay overnight at camp.
Soon the rough rubble gives way to the smooth ice of the white part of the glacier. You climb steadily to the rough and chilling but spectacular Dhaulagiri Base Camp. Stay overnight at camp.
high camps will be made before you go for final summit of world’s 7th highest peak. Stay all nights in camp.
You trek along trail covered with ice and soft snow. The stunning views of the Dhaulagiri range completely enchant you. Stay overnight at camp.
You traverse avalanche-prone slopes and then take on the steep descent to Yak Kharka. This day you trek through bare land for some distance. Stay overnight in camp.
This day the trail moves downhill until Marpha. On the way you pass small forests of juniper and other local vegetation. You will be accompanied by the splendid views of Nilgiri, Annapurna and rocky hills. Stay overnight at camp/lodge.
Drive from Marpha to Pokhara by Jeep/Bus. Stay overnight at hotel in Pokhara.
En route, you will enjoy the mountain views, green sceneries, rice terrace fields, vegetable fields and people being engaged in their daily life activities. If you choose to fly back to Kathmandu, it takes about 25 minutes. There are several flights from Kathmandu to Pokhara from morning to afternoon. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
As per your flight schedule, our airport representative will transfer from your hotel to the airport for your final departure.
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Dhaulagiri is located in the Dhaulagiri Himal range of north-central Nepal, west of the Annapurna range. It lies within the Myagdi District and is part of the western region of the Himalayas. The closest major town is Pokhara, though the actual starting point for expeditions is typically Beni or Marpha.
Dhaulagiri I stands at 8,167 meters (26,795 feet). It is considered a technically and physically demanding 8000-meter peak due to avalanche-prone slopes, steep icefalls, unpredictable weather, and high exposure to altitude sickness. It’s not recommended for beginners; prior experience above 7,000m is typically expected.
The pre-monsoon (spring) season from April to early June, and the post-monsoon (autumn) season from late September to early November are the most suitable. Spring is more popular because of stable weather and longer daylight hours.
The Northeast Ridge Route is the standard and most commonly used route. It involves a glacier approach to Dhaulagiri Base Camp (~4,750m), then ascending via Camp I (~5,850m), Camp II (~6,400m), Camp III (~7,200m), and a final summit push.
Yes, a climbing permit is required. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism issues it. Additionally you need to acquire trekking permits (TIMS), Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP).
Climbers should have:
The full expedition typically takes 40 to 50 days, including:
While some experienced climbers attempt Dhaulagiri without supplemental oxygen, most use bottled oxygen for safety above Camp III. High-altitude Sherpa support is common, especially for carrying loads, fixing ropes, and setting camps.
Historically, the summit success rate is around 35–50%, depending on weather and season. The fatality rate has ranged from 9–13% in earlier decades but has improved with better gear and support. It remains one of the more dangerous 8000ers.
While it’s not legally required, almost all climbers join organized expeditions through licensed trekking/climbing agencies, which provide logistics, permits, Sherpa support, and base camp services. Solo attempts are rare and discouraged due to risks.
Costs vary depending on services, but the average price ranges between $18,000 and $28,000 USD, including:
Mountaineering Equipments
Crampons, Ice axe, Helmet, Harness, Lock and unlock Carabineers, Shovel, Climbing pack, Rope, Ski poles, Desender/abseil device, Jummer (Asender) , Tapes, Prusik Loops, Rappel device, Hand Warmer (if possible)
Clothing and Wears
Trekking shoes with spare laces, Mountaineering Boots, Plastic or leather for mountaineering boots, Gore-Tex pants, Long shorts, Insulated Parka, Jumper, Waterproof Jackets, Down Jacket, Fleece Vest, Wool cap, Neck Gaiter, Gloves, Climbing Socks, Thermal Underwear, Sandals, Snow Goggle
Essential Gears
Backpack, Duffle bag, Sleeping Bag, sleeping pad, Tents
Gadgets
Map, Compass, Camera, GPS, Two way radios, Binoculars, Head Lamp, Flashlight
Sun Protection Items
Sun glasses, sun scream, Lip balm,
Medical
First aid Kit (Brufen / Ibuprofens, Antibiotic, Diamox, Paracetamol, Handy Plaster, Crack Bandage, Tincture Iodine, etc.)
Other Essentials
Energy Bars, Water bottle, Water Purification Tablets, Toiletries, Trekking poles, Pocket knife, raincoat, Satellite Phone, Altimeter
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