What is the best season for climbing Makalu?

The best seasons are: Spring (April to May): More stable weather, longer days, and warmer temperatures. Autumn (late September to early November): Clear skies but colder and sometimes windier. Spring is the most popular choice.

How long does the Makalu expedition take?

The full expedition typically takes about 6–8 weeks, including: Trekking to Base Camp Acclimatization rotations Summit attempts Contingency days for bad weather Most itineraries plan around 45–55 days in total.

What permits are required for Makalu?

You'll need: Makalu Expedition Permit (issued by Nepal’s Department of Tourism) Makalu-Barun National Park Entry Permit TIMS Card (Trekkers' Information Management System, sometimes required) * Permit fees can vary by season.

What is the standard route to climb Makalu?

The Northwest Ridge/Southeast Ridge via the Makalu La (pass) is the standard route. It involves establishing multiple camps: Base Camp (4800m.) Camp I (6200m.) Camp II (6600m.) Camp III (7400m.) High Camp (7800m.) From High Camp, climbers push for the summit.

What experience is required to climb Makalu?

You should have: Multiple 6000m.–7000m. peaks climbed Previous 8000m. experience (preferred but not mandatory) Strong skills in ice climbing, crampon techniques, using ascenders, rappelling, and steep alpine climbing Excellent physical conditioning Many climbers summit other 8000ers like Cho Oyu or Manaslu first.

How do climbers acclimatize during the expedition?

Acclimatization involves: Trekking slowly to Base Camp "Rotation climbs" between camps (going up and down between camps multiple times) Spending nights at higher camps progressively Using supplemental oxygen strategically (optional) Good acclimatization prevents AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness).

What are the risks and dangers during the Makalu climb?

Main risks include: Falls (steep, exposed terrain) Crevasse dangers on glaciers Avalanches (especially after fresh snow) Rockfall at lower altitudes Altitude sickness (HAPE/HACE) Sudden weather changes (high winds, whiteouts) Proper acclimatization, technical skill, and a strong support team minimize risks.

How physically fit should I be for the Makalu expedition?

Extremely fit. You should: Train cardiovascular endurance (running, hiking with heavy packs) Build strength (especially core and legs) Practice technical climbing skills Have experience carrying loads up to 15–20kg at high altitude Be prepared for long summit days (12–18 hours above 7,500 meters) Training for 6–12 months before the expedition is common.

Makalu Expedition (8485m)

Overview And Highlights

Trip Facts

Duration

50 Days

Trip Type

Camping

Grade

Strenuous

Max. Elevation

8485 m.

Transportation

Ktm-Tumlingtar-Ktm Flight

Min. Group Size

1 or more

Best Season

Spring

Makalu Expedition 2026/2027

Makalu (8485m.) is one of the most technical mountains from eight-thousanders club, and is Located in the Mahalangur Himalayan ranges, the same range to which Mt. Everest belong. It is just 20 kilometers away from Mt. Everest and located in the Makalu Barun National Park, which sometimes appears in the news as a possible place to study on Yeti. Makalu has two sister summits, Makalu II (7678m) and Chomo Lonzo (7804m).

Climbing Makalu requires a high level of commitment and skills. It is a very difficult mountain to climb, possibly one of the hardest. The pyramid shape of the top of the mountain offers a tricky challenge for many of the climbers. Climbers are required to have perfect skills in rock and ice climbing, especially while tackling steep itches and sharp ridges.

There were three attempts made in 1954, two in spring and one in autumn, to reach the summit of Makalu, the fifth highest peak on Earth, but all attempts failed during that year. Makalu was first ascended on 15 May, 1955 by a French expedition team led by Jean Franco. Mr. Franco along with Lionel Terray and Sardar Gyaltsen Norbu Sherpa successfully summit Makalu and made history. Ever since, climbers from all over the world have flocked with a desire to climb the mountain. The French Makalu Expedition team climbed Makalu by the north face following the northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La). Later, it became the standard route for Makalu climbing though west face is also approachable.

The mountain has been climbed without supplemental oxygen and even during winter. Our experienced climbing guides (Sherpa) who have already climbed Makalu many times will ensure that you will have the best possible assistance to reach your summit goal. All the logistics support and expertise will be available from Nepal Environmental Treks & Expedition for climbing Makalu.

Day to Day Itinerary

Day1Arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport,

Accommodation

Hotel

Max Elevation

1400 m.

On your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, you will be greeted traditionally with flower garlands. The representative will then take you to your hotel. If time prevails, you will visit office for paperwork. Stay overnight at the hotel in Kathmandu.

Day2Trip preparation and city tour of Kathmandu or Patan and Bhaktapur.

Food/Meals

Breakfast

Accommodation

Hotel

Max Elevation

1400 m.

Today, you will visit popular world heritage monuments in Kathmandu including Kathmandu Durbar Square, Boudhanath, Swoyambhunath, and Pashupatinath. Alternatively, you can also choose Bhakatapur and Patan sightseeing. By late afternoon, you will drive back to your hotel. Stay overnight at a hotel in Kathmandu.

Day3Final preparation day in Kathmandu for expedition.

Food/Meals

Breakfast

Accommodation

Hotel

Max Elevation

1500 m.

Final preparation day in Kathmandu for expedition. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day4Fly from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar (510m.) takes about 45 minutes.

Food/Meals

BLD

Accommodation

Lodge

Max Elevation

510 m.

After early-morning breakfast, our guide will pick you up from the hotel and drive to the domestic airport terminal. Receive your boarding pass and fly from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar (510m.) takes about 45 minutes. Then you will have free time for preparation of the trek. Stay overnight at lodge.

Day5Drive from Tumlingtar to Num (1500 m.).

Food/Meals

BLD

Accommodation

Camp

Max Elevation

1500 m.

Drive from Tumlingtar to Num (1500 m.). Stay overnight at camp.

Day6Trek from Num to Seduwa (1510 m.) which takes about four and half hours.

Food/Meals

BLD

Accommodation

Camp

Max Elevation

1510 m.

The trail descends steeply for about 2 and half hours up to the river Neguwa Khola. The trail passes through the suspension bridge and then ascends through forest and a few hamlets. People of this area are mainly engaged in agriculture and the crops grown here are paddy, millet, potatoes and vegetables depending upon season. There is a check post and local office of Makalu Conservation Area. Stay overnight at camp.

Day7Trek from Seduwa to Tashigaon (2070 m.) takes about four hours.

Food/Meals

BLD

Accommodation

Camp

Max Elevation

2070 m.

The trail slightly ascends but major part of the trail is flat and easy through the bushes. Tashigaon, surrounded by verdant forest is a big Sherpa village. You find prayer flags fluttering in the sky in and around village. The camping spot in this village is an ideal choice. Stay overnight at camp.

Day8Trek from Tashigaon to Khongma la (3560 m.) takes about six hours.

Food/Meals

BLD

Accommodation

camp

Max Elevation

3560 m.

The trail ascends throughout the day and you will walk through forest of rhododendrons and Sal trees until you reach destination. Kongma la is a ridge and there is only one tea house here. Stay overnight at camp.

Day9Trek from Khongma la to Mumbuk (3550 m.) takes about six and half hours.

Food/Meals

BLD

Accommodation

Lodge

Max Elevation

3550 m.

The trail ascends and then follows a trail until you reach a beautiful lake named “Kalo Pokhari” at the height of (4004 m). Thereafter you trek downhill to reach Mumbuk. It is a camping spot surrounded by green forests. Stay overnight at lodge/local house.

Day10Trek from Mumbuk to Yangle Kharka (3600 m.) takes about four and half hours.

Food/Meals

Breakfast

Accommodation

Camp

Max Elevation

3600 m.

The trail today is bit adventurous and strenuous. The trail passes for about 3 hours through a landscape which is very prone to landslides. The Barun River adds more dimensions to the trail with its spectacular views of Mt. Tutse (Peak 6) 6739 m, Peak 7 (6185 m.).
Stay overnight at camp.

Day11Trek from Yangle Kharka to Yak Kharka (4020 m.) takes about five and half hours.

Food/Meals

BLD

Accommodation

Camp

Max Elevation

4020 m.

The trail ascends through the grassland and forest. You can enjoy the majestic peaks such as the Mt. Tutse (Peak 6) 6739 m, Peak 7 (6185 m), Isuwa La (5340 m) and many unnamed mountains and peaks. Yak Kharka is a grazing field and you camp overnight here. Stay overnight at camp.

Day12Trek from Yak Kharka to Makalu Base Camp (4800 m.) takes about four hours.

Food/Meals

BLD

Accommodation

Camp

Max Elevation

4800 m.

The trail passes through a flat trail and will descend to a perennial river. As you reach Makalu Base Camp, you will be mesmerized by the views of Mt. Makalu (8463 m), Baruntse (7152 m), Kali Himal (6985 m), Chamlang (7390 m), Makalu II (7640 m), etc. Stay overnight at camp.

Day13Rest day

Food/Meals

BLD

Accommodation

Camp

Max Elevation

4800 m.

Rest day at Makalu Base Camp for acclimatization and expedition arrangements. Stay overnight at camp.

Day14Trek from Makalu Base Camp to Higher Base Camp.

Food/Meals

BLD

Accommodation

Camp

Max Elevation

4870 m.

Trek from Makalu Base Camp to Higher Base Camp. Stay overnight at camp.

Days15–42Climbing period of Makalu (Base Camp - Makalu summit (8485 m.) – Base Camp).

Food/Meals

BLD

Accommodation

Camp

Max Elevation

8485 m.

Climbing period of Makalu (Base Camp - Makalu summit (8485 m.) – Base Camp). Stay overnight at camp for all nights.

Day43Trek from Makalu Base Camp to Yangle Kharka (3600 m.) takes about four and a half hours.

Food/Meals

BLD

Accommodation

Camp

Max Elevation

3600 m.

After ascending for a few hours, the trail moves along flat level path and at the end it descends to reach Yangle Kharka. En route, you walk through rocky forest path with views of green hills and huge stones at some distance. Stay overnight at camp.

Day44Trek from Yangle Kharka to Dobato takes about four and a half hours.

Food/Meals

BLD

Accommodation

Camp

The trail ascends for almost three hours through the same landscape of landslide. Then, you have to trek uphill passing through jungle all the way to Dobato. This is not a village but a camping place. You camp for the night.

Day45Trek from Dobato to Tashigaon (2070 m.) which takes about six hours.

Food/Meals

BLD

Accommodation

Camp

Max Elevation

2070 m.

The trail descends steeply up to Khongma la via Kali Pokhari through jungle. You again walk along downhill all the way to Tashigaon. Stay overnight at camp.

Day46Trek from Tashigaon to Num (1490 m.) which takes about five hours.

Food/Meals

BLD

Accommodation

Camp

Max Elevation

1490 m.

The trail steeply descends in the beginning and will pass through a steep ascend later on to reach Num. You pass through a small forest of bamboo and small villages. Stay overnight at camp.

Day47Drive from Num to Tumlingtar which takes about five and half hours.

Food/Meals

BLD

Accommodation

Lodge

Max Elevation

510 m.

Drive from Num to Tumlingtar which takes about five and half hours. Stay overnight at lodge.

Day48Fly from Tumlingtar to Kathmandu.

Food/Meals

Breakfast

Accommodation

Hotel

Max Elevation

1400 m.

Fly from Tumlingtar to Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day49Free day

Food/Meals

Breakfast

Accommodation

Hotel

Max Elevation

1400 m.

Free day in Kathmandu for shopping and recreation. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day50Final departure.

Food/Meals

Breakfast

Transfer to the airport for final departure.

Price includes the following services

a) Kathmandu

Pick-up and drop-off service
All airport pick-up and drop-off services by private vehicle
Accommodation in Kathmandu
5 night hotel accommodation with breakfast at 5 star standards hotel
Sightseeing in Kathmandu
One full day city sightseeing in and around Kathmandu valley with private A/C vehicle and English speaking tour guide including entrance fees
Farewell Dinner
Farewell dinner in Kathmandu with live cultural performance at authentic Nepali restaurant on the last evening

b) Trekking/Climbing

Flight ticket
Flight tickets from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar and Tumlingtar to Kathmandu
All permits
Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Makalu, Restricted area permit for Makalu region, Entry Permits for Makalu Barun National Park and TIMS card
Porters
Porter per member up to Base Camp from Soti Khola and from Base Camp to Arughat
Base Camp Staffs
Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen helpers as per group size
Staff Salary and allowance
All involved Nepalese staffs & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipments, foods & clothing
Insurance
Medical & Emergency rescue insurance for all involved Nepalese staffs during the entire trip as per government rule
Liaison Officer
1 Government Liaison officer with full equipments, salary, accommodation and insurance as per government rule
Garbage Management Fee
Garbage transfer & garbage disposal fees as per government rule
Base Camp equipments
Foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dinning tent, 1 Kitchen tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower tents, 1 Staffs tent, 1 tent for Nepalese Base Camp staffs, store tents, Tables, chairs & necessary cooking gears like Epi gas, high pots, stove, etc.
High Camp services
High altitude tents at (C1) (C2) (C3) (C4), high altitude appropriate food for member, Sherpa and all climbing and cooking crews
Ropes
All required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing
Rope Fixing Team
The team of experienced Sherpa will fix the route on Makalu (no extra charge will be applied to members)
High Altitude Climbing Sherpa
Personal climbing guide/Sherpa (1 climbing member will have 1 climbing guide who is trained, experienced and Government license holder)
Climbing Sherpa Salary & Allowance
Salary, equipments, meals and clothing for climbing guide
Bonus
Carry bonus of Sherpas and route fixing charges
Oxygen (O2) Bottle
2 oxygen bottles (4 ltrs.) for each member and 1- oxygen bottle for each high-altitude Sherpa
Oxygen Mask & Regulator
1 Set of Oxygen mask & regulator for each member and high altitude Sherpa
Back up Sets
Back up Oxygen Cylinder, mask and regulator (with appropriate additional charge)
Gamow Bag
1 Rescued sled (Gamow bag) for emergency
Heater
Heater at Base Camp in each Dining and other necessary camp
Solar/Generator
1 Solar panel and generator for lights and battery charge for laptop and other electronic devices at Base Camp
Satellite Phone
Satellite Phone for emergency communication available for members with appropriate charge
Walkie-Talkie
Walkie –Talkie for communication from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp
Permits
Satellite Phone / walkie-talkie permits
First Aid Kit
Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staffs
Certificate
Certificate for Makalu (8485 meters) climbing issued by Tourism Ministry after climbing Mt. Manaslu successfully
Tax and VAT
Tax, VAT and our service charge

Service Excludes

Lunch & Dinner
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from trekking / expedition than the scheduled itinerary)
Extra night in Kathmandu
Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu (even in case of early arrival or late departure, early return from trekking / expedition due to any reason than the scheduled itinerary)
Travel Insurance
Medical and personal high risk travel insurance which should cover helicopter evacuation cost and medical treatment cost incase required
Rescue Evacuation
Medical and emergency rescue evacuation cost if required (Rescue, Repatriation, Helicopter, Medication, Medical Tests and Hospitalization costs)
Personal Expenses
Telephone calls, internet, toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers and any alcoholic beverages (However we will provide soft drinks for members at base camp)
Personal Equipments
Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking /climbing Gears
Toiletries
Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and your other personal items used to keep yourself clean
Filming
Permit fee for special filming by using camera or drone
Internet
Internet service is available with extra charge during the trek and Base Camp
Summit Bonus
Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa (Normally US$1300 applies to full board member)
Tips
Tips for Base Camp and other involved staffs
Service above Base Camp
If you are taking just Base Camp services, then there will be not be any service from company above base camp
Rope Fixing
The cost for using fixed rope during the expedition will apply only to Base Camp service users
Extra services
Any other services or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary

Explore the route

Altitude & route map

Select a preview to open a large, zoomable view.

Makalu Expedition (8485m) Altitude Graph

Frequently Asked Questions for Makalu Expedition (8485m)

Makalu (8,485 meters / 27,838 feet) is the fifth highest mountain in the world, located in the Mahalangur Himalayas 19 km southeast of Mount Everest, straddling the border between Nepal and Tibet (China). It is famous for its steep pitches and sharp ridges, making it one of the more challenging 8000-meter peaks.

Makalu is considered one of the most technically challenging 8000-meter peaks due to its steep sections, knife-edge ridges, exposed climbing, and unpredictable weather. Climbers must be highly skilled in technical rock and ice climbing, especially above Camp III.

The best seasons are:

Spring (April to May): More stable weather, longer days, and warmer temperatures.
Autumn (late September to early November): Clear skies but colder and sometimes windier.

Spring is the most popular choice.

The full expedition typically takes about 6–8 weeks, including:

Trekking to Base Camp
Acclimatization rotations
Summit attempts
Contingency days for bad weather

Most itineraries plan around 45–55 days in total.

You'll need:

Makalu Expedition Permit (issued by Nepal’s Department of Tourism)
Makalu-Barun National Park Entry Permit
TIMS Card (Trekkers' Information Management System, sometimes required)

* Permit fees can vary by season.

The Northwest Ridge/Southeast Ridge via the Makalu La (pass) is the standard route. It involves establishing multiple camps:

Base Camp (4800m.)
Camp I (6200m.)
Camp II (6600m.)
Camp III (7400m.)
High Camp (7800m.)

From High Camp, climbers push for the summit.

Yes, technically. While Everest is higher, Makalu demands more technical skill due to steeper ice and rock climbing sections and fewer established fixed lines. It is less crowded, meaning less support infrastructure compared to Everest.

You should have:

Multiple 6000m.–7000m. peaks climbed
Previous 8000m. experience (preferred but not mandatory)
Strong skills in ice climbing, crampon techniques, using ascenders, rappelling, and steep alpine climbing
Excellent physical conditioning

Many climbers summit other 8000ers like Cho Oyu or Manaslu first.

Acclimatization involves:

Trekking slowly to Base Camp
"Rotation climbs" between camps (going up and down between camps multiple times)
Spending nights at higher camps progressively
Using supplemental oxygen strategically (optional)

Good acclimatization prevents AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness).

Yes, many climbers use supplemental oxygen above Camp III (around 7,000m) to reduce fatigue and improve performance. However, Makalu has been climbed without oxygen by elite mountaineers. Most guided expeditions recommend or provide it.

Main risks include:

Falls (steep, exposed terrain)
Crevasse dangers on glaciers
Avalanches (especially after fresh snow)
Rockfall at lower altitudes
Altitude sickness (HAPE/HACE)
Sudden weather changes (high winds, whiteouts)

Proper acclimatization, technical skill, and a strong support team minimize risks.

Extremely fit. You should:

Train cardiovascular endurance (running, hiking with heavy packs)
Build strength (especially core and legs)
Practice technical climbing skills
Have experience carrying loads up to 15–20kg at high altitude
Be prepared for long summit days (12–18 hours above 7,500 meters)

Training for 6–12 months before the expedition is common.

Additional Information

Mountaineering Equipments
Crampons, Ice axe, Helmet, Harness, Lock and unlock Carabineers, Shovel, Climbing pack, Rope, Ski poles, Desender/abseil device, Jummer (Asender) , Tapes, Prusik Loops, Rappel device, Hand Warmer (if possible)

Clothing and Wears
Trekking shoes with spare laces, Mountaineering Boots, Plastic or leather for mountaineering boots, Gore-Tex pants, Long shorts, Insulated Parka, Jumper, Waterproof Jackets, Down Jacket, Fleece Vest, Wool cap, Neck Gaiter, Gloves, Climbing Socks, Thermal Underwear, Sandals, Snow Goggle

Essential Gears
Backpack, Duffle bag, Sleeping Bag, sleeping pad, Tents

Gadgets
Map, Compass, Camera, GPS, Two way radios, Binoculars, Head Lamp, Flashlight

Sun Protection Items
Sun glasses, sun scream, Lip balm,

Medical
First aid Kit (Brufen / Ibuprofens, Antibiotic, Diamox, Paracetamol, Handy Plaster, Crack Bandage, Tincture Iodine, etc.)

Other Essentials
Energy Bars, Water bottle, Water Purification Tablets, Toiletries, Trekking poles, Pocket knife, raincoat, Satellite Phone, Altimeter