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Ama Dablam Expedition with Island Peak Climb

Trip Highlights

Duration: 35 Days

Type of Trek: Camping

Max Altitude: 6300 m.

Minimum Pax: 1 +

Mode of travel: Flight

Grade: Strenuous

Ama Dablam, regarded as the ‘third most popular Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions’, could also be labeled as one of the most beautiful Himalayan peaks, located in the eastern Nepal.

Ama Dablam literally means ‘mother’s necklace’ in Sherpa language. Ama Dablam is 6856m in height and was first climbed in 1961 by an expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary. The most popular route for reaching the top is via southwest ridge although north ridge is also used. The base of the peak is at 5800 meters a perfect spot for acclimatization. Ama Dablam is considered to be a technically difficult and challenging peak for all mountaineers as it involves ice and snow climbing and glacier walking.

Ama Dablam is combined with the climb of Island Peak or Imja Tse. Island Peak looks like an island on a sea of ice and was first climbed in the same year as Everest and by the same team of Hillary and Sherpa as part of warm-up and acclimatization. Since then Island Peak has been a favorite of those who attempt to climb Everest or for anyone willing to climb a mountain.

Island Peak has an impressive, highly glaciated West Face which rises from the Lhotse Glacier. In fact, the mountain extends from the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated only by a small col. Steep slopes, rocky climb and ice walking are essential features of climbing an Island peak but once on the top you will be rewarded with stunning views of the surrounding mountains including Nuptse, Lhotse, Cho Polu, Makalu, Ama Dablam and Baruntse.

  • Outline Itinerary
  • Detailed Itinerary
  • Price Info

Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu International Airport and transfer to hotel.

Day 02: Preparation day in Kathmandu.

Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla which takes approximately 30 minutes and trek to Phakding.

Day 04: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.) which takes about 5 to 5 and a half hour.

Day 05: Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization and excursion around the places.

Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850 m.) takes almost 5 hours.

Day 07: Trek from Tyangboche to Dingboche (4350m.) takes about four and a half to 5 hours.

Day 08: Rest at Dingboche for acclimatization. Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 09: Trek from Dingboche (4350m.) to Chhukung (4730m.) takes about two and a half hours.

Day 10: Trek from Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp (5087m) takes about three hours.

Day 11: Set the high camp.

Day 12: Climb the Island peak and back to base camp.

Day 13: Trek from Base camp to Pangboche.

Day 14: Rest at Pangboche.

Day 15: Trek from Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp.

Day 16 -29: Base Camp, Camp I, Camp II, Summit to the top.

Day 30: Trek from Ama Dablam Base camp to Namche. Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 31: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Phakding (2652m.) which takes about four hours.

Day 32: Trek from Phakding to Lukla (2886m) which takes about three hours.

Day 33: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.

Day 34: Rest day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 35: Fly out from Kathmandu.

Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu International Airport and transfer to hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 02: Preparation day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla which takes approximately 30 minutes and trek to Phakding. Stay overnight at lodge in Phakding.

Early in the morning you will be driven from the hotel to Kathmandu airport, after a 30 minute spectacular flight you will land at Lukla airport (2800m.). You begin your trek to Phakding (2652m.) and walk for about two and a half to three hrs. While trekking, you head up the Dudh Koshi Valley on a well-marked trail to Phakding (2652m.)

Day 04: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.) which takes about 5 to 5 and a half hour.

This day you will cross the river on high suspension bridges. Beyond Monjo (2800m.) is the entrance to the Sagarmatha National Park which was set up in order to protect and preserve this fragile mountain environment. You then ascend quite steeply to Namche and along the way, if the weather is clear, catch a first glimpse of Mt Everest in the distance. You can also enjoy the view of Mt. Kusum Kangaru, Thamserku, Konde-Ri, and Tawache peak. You can also visit some of the village monasteries on the way trekking to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.). Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar.

Day 05: Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization and excursion around the places.

It is an ideal place to spend a rest day for acclimatization to the high altitude before heading off towards Tyangboche. For the acclimatization you walk up to Khunde Hospital which was set up by Sir Edmund Hillary, or a one hour walk up to Syangboche (3800m.) where Everest View Hotel is situated above Namche for the outstanding view of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar.

Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850 m.) takes almost 5 hours.

From Namche, the trail contours around the side of the valley, high above the Dudh Kosi. From here you can catch a glimpse of the great peaks of the Khumbu including Mt Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, the trail descends steeply to a bridge over the river Dudh Koshi at Phunki Tenga (3250m.). The village has an excellent place for lunch and you can take a short rest before making the steep climb to Tyangboche. Tyangboche is famous for its legendary monastery, the largest in the Khumbu region. Stay overnight at lodge in Tyangboche.

Day 07: Trek from Tyangboche to Dingboche (4350m.) takes about four and a half to 5 hours.

You gradually descend through a forest, cross the Imja Khola and climb steadily up to the village of Pangboche. This is directly opposite to Ama Dablam [6,856 m], and has exceptional views of the mountain, with the Gompa, Mani walls and scattered pine trees in the foreground. As you gradually ascend, you do find thick forests as the trail is full of thorny and juniper bushes. A further two and a half hour’s walk brings you to Dingboche. Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 08: Rest at Dingboche for acclimatization. Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 09: Trek from Dingboche (4350m.) to Chhukung (4730m.) takes about two and a half hours.

The trail gradually ascends up to the Chhukung. On the way, you can see summer huts made especially for keeping the livestock in summer time. Along this, you enjoy the beautiful mountain views in and around the valley. Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 10: Trek from Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp (5087m) takes about three hours.

You trek on a gradual ascending path all the way to Base Camp. On the way you can enjoy the panoramic views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, Island Peak and many others. Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 11: Set the high camp.

Day 12: Climb the Island peak and back to base camp.

Day 13: Trek from Base camp to Pangboche.

After descending along the trail to Chhukung, you continue on to Dingboche for lunch. It is then another couple of hours to the lovely village of Pangboche where you will camp for the night.

Day 14: Rest at Pangboche.

Day 15: Trek from Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp.

Lunch at Pangboche and continue trekking to Base camp. Sherpa staff will set the base camp & Expedition members will rest and relax.

Day 16 -29: Base Camp, Camp I, Camp II, Summit to the top.

You have full 17 days to make the summit on the top of Mt Ama Dablam with support of our experienced climbing Sherpa.

Base Camp (4600 m): Situated on a large grassy meadow with a wonderful views.

To Yak Camp (5400 m): Yaks carry most of your equipment for this section, which saves three to fours hours of heavy work. There is a rough track over very rocky terrain, which the yaks and we use.

To Camp I (5800 m): Your first real camp is only one and a half hours walk above Yak camp. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. You sometimes fix a couple of sections with rope to be used as a handrail.

Camp I to Camp II (6000 m): Now, you begin your climb. This route mostly involves rock climbing. You follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you will be grateful of the fixed ropes in place. You can also use your jumar to help you over the odd spot of difficulties. Most of the climbing on this section is traversing on rock, so good rock climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.

Camp II: Situated on top of the Yellow Tower on a narrow platform this camp site is rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you dropped your cup from here, it would probably land in base camp!

Camp II to Camp III (6300m): Now, for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route, you follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the purpose of camp three.

Camp III: A cold and exposed position is the start of your summit push. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times and unfortunately funnel the wind to this location. It is, however, the only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit.

Summit day: The initial route is to the right of the huge “Dablam” (ice cliff), up a moderately steep slope. Once past this feature we move toward the centre of the face. The angle eases slightly and a couple of tough hours later we emerge on the summit (6856 m). The summit is the size of a tennis court and allows us to move around and take pictures. Five of the world’s six highest peaks are clearly visible, with many other 7000m and lesser peaks filling the gaps.

Day 30: Trek from Ama Dablam Base camp to Namche. Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 31: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Phakding (2652m.) which takes about four hours. Stay overnight at lodge.

The trail descends steeply for early one and a half hours. After that, the path has small ups and downs to Phakding through Monjo. .

Day 32: Trek from Phakding to Lukla (2886m) which takes about three hours.

Your final day's trekking follows the Dudh Kosi back down to Lukla. Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 33: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 34: Rest day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 35: Fly out from Kathmandu.

The Trip includes following services:

a) Kathmandu

  • Airport pick-up and drop-off services by private car
  • 5 night hotel accommodation with breakfast in Kathmandu
  • One farewell dinner in Kathmandu with live cultural performance at authentic Nepali restaurant on the last evening
  • Souvenir (t-shirt, mug, pen, bag, etc.)

b) Trekking/Climbing

  • Peak permits for Ama Dablam and Island Peak
  • Entry permit for Sagarmatha National Park
  • Trekkers' Information Management System (TIMS) card
  • Climbing Sherpas (one climbing Sherpa for every 2 climbers)
  • One trekking guide, One cook and One kitchen helper
  • Required porters/Yaks
  • One liaison officer
  • All climbing equipment for climbing Sherpa, guide, cook and kitchen helper
  • Necessary trekking/camping equipment such as tents, mattresses, sleeping bags, down jackets, cooking utensils, etc.
  • Insurance and Medical expenses for Liaison Officer, Climbing Sherpa, Sirdar (guide), Cook and assistant porters
  • All meals three times a day during the trek/climb
  • Accommodation in tea houses (lodges) for some nights and some nights camping
  • Cooking fuel
  • Camping charges
  • All land transportation wherever applicable
  • Flight ticket from Kathmandu to Lukla and Lukla to Kathmandu
  • Cargo charges on the basis of 30 kg per person
  • Insurance and equipment's for guide and porters
  • First aid kit
  • Rescue assistance (Should any emergency arise during your trek, we will provide prompt and professional rescue and medical services. For this, it would be better to have your own travel insurance that can cover helicopter evacuation and medical treatment cost in case required.)

The Trip does not include:

  • Personal nature expenses
  • Travel insurance
  • Tips
  • Personal Climbing equipment's
  • Lunch & Dinner in Kathmandu

Note: There are different categories of Hotels in Kathmandu ranging from budget to 5 star hotels. We are happy to arrange your hotel accommodation in Kathmandu as per your interest and budget. Please inform us in advance about the type or category or price range of hotel that you would like to stay in.

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