Mustang
is the hinterland enriched with mainly
barren ridges, deep canyons, eroded
cliffs and Moraine valleys. Its landscape
is unrivaled for it has a stupendous
wilderness, pristine scenery, snow
capped peaks, spectacular 16th century
monasteries and many other unique
attractions. The view of wind swept
Kali-Gandaki valley, vast spaces around
Kagbeni and vast ridges that straggle
high mountains provide a mind-blowing
experience.
Nepal’s Mustang region preserves
a life almost unchanged for centuries.
It lies hidden behind the Himalayan
giants of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna
at the very roof of Asia on the arid
Tibetan plateau. It has long been
isolated from the outside world (and
only opened to trekking groups since
1992!). As you make your way through
this secluded land, you’ll pass
brightly painted chortens (Buddhist
shrines) and tiny villages guarded
by enormous monasteries. Vistas include
unusual and arresting views of the
snow-covered Himalaya to the south,
and desolate high plateaus, deep canyons,
and an ocean of windswept hills the
colors of a desert sunset to the north.
Once at the walled capital city of
Lo Manthang, you’ll absorb a
great sense of timelessness and appreciation
for an ancient culture as you discover
the ruins of old forts, monasteries
rich in art and history, and caves
replete with magnificent religious
statues.
Mustang is the old kingdom of Lo.
Actually the capital of the Mustang
district is Jomsom, but the real Tibetan
style district lies north of Kagbeni
and is usually referred to as Upper
Mustang. The real capital, Lo Manthang,
where the present king lives, is a
fantastic square-walled town sitting
on the ‘Plain of Prayers’.
The small kingdom of Mustang, closed
to westerners until 1992, is an enchanting
land of windswept vistas, red walled
monasteries, and feudal towns. This
tiny kingdom was not only a major
corridor of trade from the 1400's
to before the Chinese occupation of
Tibet, but also figured importantly
into early Buddhism in Tibet. Local
legend tells the tale of the great
founder of Tibetan Buddhism, Padmasambhava,
who before building Samye (the oldest
monastery in Tibet) came to Mustang
to stand guard against and do battle
with the evil powers out to destroy
Buddhism. The temple of Lo Gekhar
in eastern Mustang was built by Padmasambhava
after his triumphant battle and still
stands guard today.
Outline
Itinerary
Day
01
Drive
from Kathmandu to Pokhara
(915 m.) which takes about
seven hours. This road
is newly paved and is
now one of the finest
in Nepal! Immediately,
you head up as you climb
out of the Kathmandu valley,
only to quickly descend
again to the Trisuli River,
which you follow upstream
to its junction with the
Marsyandi River. You follow
the Marsyandi gently up
through heavily terraced
fields and small hill
towns to the Seti Gandiki
River that takes you directly
into Pokhara. Pokhara
is a beautiful city with
pleasant weather. It is
renowned for its touris's
paradise. This city is
full of natural as well
as cultural heritage sites
such as lakes, caves,
temples of Buddhist and
Hindus along with mountains.
As you approach the city,
there are wonderful views
to the north across the
hills and Phewa Tal (lake)
to the white peaks of
the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri
ranges. This drive will
take most of the morning,
leaving much of the afternoon
for a relaxing boat ride
on Phewa Lake, shopping
in the markets and shops,
or just relaxing with
a drink on the shores
of the lake.
Day
02
Fly
from Pokhara to Jomsom
(2700 m.) and it takes
about 25 minutes and trek
from Jomsom to Kagbeni
(2810 m.) which takes
about four hours. You
take the spectacular early
morning flight to Jomsom.
After some initial preparation
of loads, you begin your
trek to the beautiful
village of Kagbeni. Just
out of Jomsom you cross
a suspension bridge and
then walk along the riverbank
of the Kali Gandaki. The
trail is quite barren
with craggy rocks and
sand and is mostly flat,
which makes it very easy
going. It is also very
picturesque, with views
of big peaks all around
such as Dhaulagiri, Tukuche
and Nilgiri, whilst to
the south can be seen
the entire Annapurna Massif.
Kagbeni provides you with
a taste of scenes to come
in upper Mustang, with
its narrow alleyways and
tunnels, irrigation canals,
green fields of wheat
and barley and a large
red gompa.
Day
03
Trek
from Kagbeni to Chuksang
(2900 m.) which takes
about five hours.
You trek right up the
river valley, but you
use a combination of the
high trail and the riverbank
pathways. The trail then
widens significantly revealing
an endless stretch of
sand but the path is kept
interesting by the passing
of mule trains bearing
goods from Mustang and
Tibet. On the west bank
of the river are some
caves and Gompa Kang.
Unlike most monasteries
in Upper Mustang which
are of the Sakyapa sect,
Gompa Kang is of the Nyingmapa
sect. You stop for lunch
at the village of Tangbe,
where you come across
the first black, white
and red chortens that
typify Upper Mustang.
The little town is a labyrinth
of narrow alleys among
white washed houses, fields
of buck wheat and barley
and apple orchards. Nilgiri
Peak continues to dominate
the southern skyline.
Chusang village is only
about 2hrs walk beyond
Tangbe at the confluence
of the Narshing Khola
and the Kali Gandaki.
There are three separate
parts to this village
and some ruined castle
walls on the surrounding
cliffs. Across the river
from Chusang are some
spectacular red organe
pipe eroded cliffs above
the mouths of some inaccessible
caves.
Day
04
Trek
from Chuksang to Samar
(3150 m.) and it takes
about three and half hours.
There is a distinct change
here, not only in the
topography, but also in
the culture, lifestyle
and people, and the settlements
become more scattered,
smaller and more basic.
The people of Lo or Mustang
do practice agriculture,
but because of the lack
of rain and fertile soil,
cultivation is in sheltered
plots of land, scattering
the brown landscape with
patches of green. Continuing
north, you reach a huge
red chunk of conglomerate
that has fallen from the
cliffs above, forming
a tunnel through which
the river flows. A steel
bridge spans the river
just in front of the tunnel
and north of here the
Kali Gandaki becomes impassable
on foot. The trek now
leaves the valley and
climbs steeply up a rocky
alley to the village of
Chele. Watch out here
for the ferocious Tibetan
mastiffs which are chained
to many of the houses.
From Chele you climb a
steep spur and then continue
ascending along the side
of a spectacular steep
canyon to a pass. Beyond
the pass you descend on
a pleasant trail to Samar,
situated in a grove of
poplar trees. This is
a major stopping place
for horse and mule caravans.
Day
05
Trek
from Samar to Geling (3510
m.) which takes about
five hours. You climb
above Samar to a ridge
and then descend into
a large gorge past a chorten
before entering another
valley filled with juniper
trees. You then cross
a stream and after climbing
to a pass, you descend
along a ridge to Shyangmochen
a tiny settlement with
a few tea shops. Nearby
is Rangbyung, a cave containing
stalagmites which have
formed in the shape of
chortens and one of the
holiest places in Mustang.
The trail climbs gently
from Shyangmochen and
you enter another huge
valley before descending
to Geling with its extensive
fields of barley. As in
all the settlements of
Mustang, the white and
ochre-painted houses are
constructed using mud
and stones, with roofs
made of twigs, straw and
a mixture of mud and pebbles.
Day
06
Trek
from Geling to Ghami (3490
m.) via Ghami La (3520m.)
and it takes about five
hours. From Geling the
trail climbs gently through
fields, up the center
of the valley, passing
above the settlement of
Tama Gun and an imposing
chorten. You then begin
a taxing climb across
the head of the valley
to the Nyi La [3840m].
The descent from the pass
is quite gentle and about
half an hour further on
we come to a trail junction;
the right trail is the
direct route to Charang,
the left trail leads to
Ghami. Ghami is a large
white-washed village sheltered
by overhanging cliffs.
Day
07
Trek
fram Ghami to Tsarang
(36200 m.) which takes
about five hours. Today's
walk is through perhaps
the driest part of Mustang,
and much of your energy
will be spent negotiating
loose, dry soil. However,
the magnificent views
of the countryside, from
the gentle contours of
the north to the rugged
mountains in the east
and west, are a source
of inspiration. Finally,
you come to Charang, a
large spread-out village
at the top of the Charang
Chu canyon. At the eastern
end of the village are
a huge dzong [fortress]
and a red gompa which
houses an excellent collection
of statues and thangkas.
Day
08
Trek
from Tsarang to Lo-Manthang
[Mustang](3730 m.) and
it takes about three hours.
You will spend part of
the morning exploring
the interesting village
of Charang and its large
monastery, before setting
out for Lo Manthang. You
climb gently above the
valley to a large isolated
chorten that marks the
boundary between Charang
and Lo. The trail then
broadens and eventually
you get our first view
of the walled city of
Lo Manthang. The city
has only one entrance
so you circumambulate
the wall to the gate on
the north east corner.
Day
09
Rest
at Lo-Manthang.
Day
10
Trek
from Lo-Manthang to Ghami
(3490 m.) which takes
about six hours.
You continue your journey
on the highland route,
crossing alpine meadows
before dropping down a
steep eroded alley to
Dhakmar for lunch. After
lunch, you walk through
the pretty valley, climb
to a ridge and descend
from there back to Ghami.
Day
11
Trek
from Ghami to Samar and
it takes about six hours.
Leaving Ghami you begin
to follow narrow winding
path until you reach Geling
crossing a small stream.
On the way you can enjoy
the view of Nilgiri mountain,
deserted landscapes, Tibetan
style villages, farming
terraces and natural vegetation.
From Geling the path turns
broader till Samar passing
deserted landscapes, natural
vegetation, plateau, Tibetan
style houses, chortens,
mani walls, prayer flags
and distinct culture of
local inhabitants. Samar
is a small village with
terraces, Tibetan style
houses, mani walls, monastery,
prayer flags and here
you find people following
Tibetan life style.
Day
12
Trek
from Samar to Kagbeni
which takes about seven
hours. Following descent
path you reach Chuksang
crossing suspension bridge
over Kali Gandaki. Now
you walk along the bank
of Kali Gandaki with views
of natural vegetation,
apple orchard and there
is a chance to find fossils.
Day
13
Trek
from Kagbeni to Jomsom
(2713m.) which takes about
three hours.
Your trail passes through
the bank of Kali Gandaki
passing through the Eklebhatti.
The trail is windy after
late morning. The river
flows through broader
course. Jomsom is the
headquarter of Mustang
and it is split into two
towns and between these
two towns passes through
Kali Gandaki river. There
is access of internet
and banking facilities.
From Jomsom, you can enjoy
the magnificent views
of Nilgiri and Tilicho
peak. Here you stay overnight
at hotel.
Day
14
Fly
from Jomsom to Pokhara
which takes about 35 minutes.
The flights are available
during the morning time.
The strong breeze blows
during the after and frequent
change of the weather
prevent the flight being
landed and taken off in
the afternoon. During
the flights in morning,
the sky looks very clear
which makes you able to
enjoy the splendid views
of different mountain
peaks.
Day
15
Drive
from Pokhara to Kathmandu
by tourist mini bus that
takes about seven hours.
While driving from Pokhara
to Kathmandu, you head
up to Damauli,, Dumre,
Muglin and Kurintar where
the Nepal's first Cable
car is operated to reach
to Manakamana Temple.
En route, you could enjoy
the mountain views, green
sceneries, rice terrace
fields, vegetable fields
and people being engaged
in their daily life activities.
From Naubishe you climb
up to Thankot, the gateway
to capital city. You can
also fly from Pokhara
to Kathmandu which takes
about 25 minutes.
